A purity of form

I always enjoy reading US Glamour. Some of my favourite columns are Michael Kors’ designer tips, and the hilarious Dos & Don’ts page. Jake’s column is always good for a laugh too. However, I rarely sigh with sheer pleasure. When I turned the page and saw this spread though, I did gasp at the white, sculptural minimalism of Francisco Costa’s designs for Calvin Klein Spring 2009 RTW (although I must concur with Style.com’s review). What beautiful purity of form and (non) colour! Those seams remind me of Frank Gehry’s architecture.

These are just the style of clothes I love to wear – although I must be a little more ingenious at finding them with my limited means: young Melbourne designers, vintage, or labels like Veronika Maine or Cue. Of course, I do indulge in sartorial eccentricities upon occasion, but I feel most myself wearing this kind of look.

Some of Glamour writer Kim Bonnell’s words on the subject:

“Costa… stays away from flourishes like major sparkles and outsize buttons and prints, paring down while rethinking the line and structure of a dress, sleeve or collar. [Costa] has mastered this minimal-plus formula, not least of all because he’s an expert tailor. That skill is what allows him to make pieces that, when stripped down to their fabric and thread, are interesting purely because of how they’re curved or seamed.”

“…Costa took photos from his fall runway show and sliced them up, creating patterns for boldly angled sheath dresses with deep origami pleats and long, geometric-sleeve coats.”

“Stick to a mostly monochromatic palette, but vary textures… Keep accessories neutral… Show skin in a calculated way with sheer materials and one-shoulder silhouettes. And above all, seek out strikingly contoured pieces, whether a jacket with a big collar or a bubble skirt.”

I suddenly feel inspired to spring-clean my wardrobe … and start afresh for autumn.

From US Glamour, February 2009. Photographs: Walter Chin.