Clothes as sculpture
Ma Ke's Fall ’07 collection … experiments with tattered finishes, voluminous silhouettes and an earthy palette. From Surface #67, ph: Enrico Dagnino.
I have spent the last few days spring-cleaning my apartment (even if it is the depths of winter here in Melbourne). Recent drastic changes in my life have filled me with a burning desire to de-clutter my life, so I’ve ruthlessly been throwing out all sorts of things. It’s been very liberating. Included in the cleanout was a minute inspection of my wardrobe that resulted in a large donation to the Salvation Army.
Even more drastically, I’ve thrown out fashion magazines!
Even more drastically, I’ve thrown out fashion magazines! Only after, of course, I leafed through them and tore out the pages I wanted to keep. I have a vast library of tear-sheet books accumulated over the last twenty years – and I do look at those.
(Above) Reykjavik-based label Steinunn takes inspiration from Iceland, building collections that feature robust forms and plush custom fabrics. Fall ’07, designed by Steinunn Sigurthardóttir. Page from Surface, ph: Jaime Chard.
Constantly exploring new methods of cutting and draping, Maria Cornejo nevertheless creates a seamless transition between her label's latest fall/winter and resort collections. Images from Surface #62, ph: Koji Yano.
These pages come from various issues of Surface, dating from 2006–07. It caused me a pang to rip them up as they are beautifully designed magazines, but reflecting that I had rarely flicked through them since I first bought them, I set to with a will. (Does anyone who hoards magazines actually ever look at them?)
These designer profiles particularly caught my eye because their garments possess all things that I love: intricate folds and pleating, volume, asymmetry, texture. (You can see the whole of Maria Cornejo and Haider Ackermann's gorgeous current collections at Style.com, as well as past seasons, including the ones pictured above and below.)
Haider Ackermann's collection for Fall ’07 skillfully experiments with a variety of textiles, culminating into a collection that includes: a metallic jumpsuit (not pictured); (02) furtrimmed outerwear; (03) floor-skimming jersey gown; (04) wool tunic paired with vinyl leggings; (05) fitted leather jacket with asymmetrical closure; (06) draped metallic top. Page from Surface #67.
A favourite piece of Ackermann's from Spring/Summer ’06. Page from Surface #67.
…their garments possess all things that I love: intricate folds and pleating, volume, asymmetry, texture.
For years I have vacillated with two extreme looks: minimalism and a bohemian eccentricity. By the former I do not mean the extremes of the purist nineties style. My sort of minimalism involves a reduced colour palette (neutrals combined with shots of bright colour); one simple shape offset by another, more complex one; and the contrast of interesting textures or accessories. In short, anything that is sculptural.
It doesn’t mean all my vintage clothes have been tossed into the trashcan; I will merely be more selective, and only those that fit my criteria … will fit in my wardrobe.
A selection of Ackermann's favourite pieces from his past collections: (02, 03, 04) Fall/Winter ’05–’06; (05) Spring/Summer ’06; (06, 07, 08) Fall/Winter ’06–’07. Page from Surface #67.