What is Elegance?
Lift that chin! Taken in Sep 2008, this picture has a little spirit of vintage elegance about it. 1950s vintage headpiece, Veronika Maine top.I have been pondering this question for a long time: what is elegance? The answer could fill a book (and has), but I shall try to be briefer, although I’d like to consider these three concepts: elegance, style, fashion; and elegance as it pertains to aspects of ourselves other than our attire.
Is elegance different to style, to being fashionable?
Of course. When I was a teen, I did not understand elegance, per se, and I did not have my own style. I merely wore what was in fashion. In my early twenties, when I went to art school, I really started developing my own style – inspired by like-minded people; my studies; and the creative, eclectic district of my school. I don’t know when I started to think about elegance. Perhaps it was something I absorbed during my childhood, observing my older sisters; or perhaps it was in response to my various environments, and the behaviours of the people around me as I matured.
‘Elegance is refusal’, said Coco Chanel.
I am certain that something changed when my own style evolved in my late twenties: I moved on from the arty, ‘boho’ (how I loathe that word) look that was a relic of art school, to a type of minimalism that was yet not too Puritan. I wore simple, clean shapes but chose interesting fabrics, colours and textures.
Coco Chanel, 1936. Ph: Lipnitzki‘Elegance is refusal’, said Coco Chanel. She also advised us to look in the mirror and take one thing off before we left the house. (Going by what some people wear on the streets these days I suspect they don’t look in the mirror at all!)
The OED defines the word elegant as ‘graceful and stylish in appearance or manner’; style as ‘a particular way … procedure by which something is done; a distinctive appearance’ etc; and fashion as ‘a popular, or the latest style of clothing, hair, decoration or behaviour’.
The word ‘graceful’ is an important one: graceful in manner, in movement, in speech. When I think of elegance, I often picture women of the 1930–1950s. Not only historical photographs and films of the period (just take a look at Audrey Hepburn) but modern films set in these times, such as Gosford Park*. Why this period? Surely they don’t have a monopoly on elegance?
(Left) Two 1930s women dressed for a garden party. Ph: Alfred Eisenstaedt. Image from life.com.Perhaps not, but they did believe strongly in good manners. I don’t think you can ever be truly elegant if you are vulgar and rude to the people around you. Not the most beautiful face or careful dressing will hide bitchiness, selfishness, and all kinds of unattractive character traits forever. You will be remembered however – no matter how plain – if you are gracious, kind, a good listener … and ‘sugar and spice, and all other things nice’!
The other thing about these elegant women of the early half of the twentieth century was posture. They stood tall – or as tall as they could. This is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to achieve a little elegance: stand up straight and your clothes – no matter their origin – will hang better, and your figure will be remarkably improved. Hold your head high – yet not so high that you look unapproachable. I once received the loveliest compliment from a man: “There was something in the way you walked, the way you carried yourself – whenever we were meeting I loved to watch your arrival.” How extraordinary I felt to hear that!
Hold your head high – yet not so high that you look unapproachable.
One of my all-time favourite fashion images. ‘Charles James Gowns, Vogue, June 1948′ Ph: Cecil BeatonIt did help that many of these women (the upper class lasses) went to finishing, or deportment schools. Nowadays we have to rely on old movies, and books – or, if we’re lucky – our families, friends and mentors who set an excellent example.
Here’s an inspiring excerpt from How to be Lovely: The Audrey Hepburn Way of Life (Melissa Hellstern) to read before you click and buy. Some other books on the subject: The Penguin Book of Etiquette: The Complete Australian Guide to Modern Manners (Marion Von Adlerstein); Manners (Kate Spade); Miss Manners’ Guide to Excruciatingly Correct Behaviour, Freshly Updated (Judith Martin).
Next time on Sit Like A Lady, I’ll tackle the extremely important subject of CLOTHES!
(Left) Wenda Rogerson, Vogue 1951. Ph: Norman Parkinson. (Right) Audrey Hepburn. Ph: unknown.*Please note I do not advocate their mean-spirited behaviour!