Tenuous Threads
The NGV International’s current fashion exhibition is called ‘Drape: Classical Mode to Contemporary Dress’, and features clothing based on two styles of draping of fabric on the body: clinging and elevated.
The former – seemingly a far more natural and uncontrived method of fashioning cloth – is based on the classical garments of ancient civilisations. There is a ‘direct interaction between the body and cloth’ the NGV’s writer declares. Is this merely the result of ancient clothiers’ practicality?
Perhaps also in antiquity, these garments with their swathes of billowing fabric were far less revealing than modern examples of 20th century couturiers’, such as Ungaro’s silk jersey dress (below left) with its revealing cut-outs.
(Left) Emmanuel Ungaro, Dress 2003, silk jersey, silk chiffon, metal. (Right, from left) Jean Dessès, Evening Dress 1954, silk, bone, zip, metal, acetate; Dior, by Christian Dior, Ballgown 1953, silk, nylon, metal fasteners.‘Elevated drape’ is far more akin to sculpture: fabric whipped into a frenzy – like Kawakubo’s black meringue, forever frozen into stillness behind the glass (below left). It is supported by tulle. Other antique garments achieved their volume through draping cloth cunningly over rather more architectural constructs: crinolines or bustles.
(Left) Comme de Garçons, by Rei Kawakubo, Dress Spring/Summer 1997, cotton, polyester, nylon tulle. (Right) Dior, by Marc Bohan, Evening Outfit (tunic and trousers with cummerbund), Autumn/Winter 1977, viscose jersey.
‘Elevated drape’ is far more akin to sculpture: fabric whipped into
a frenzy…
My favourite garment in the exhibition – Paco Rabanne’s golden column (foreground, below) – harks back to a time between the ancient and modern worlds: to the Middle Ages, and Joan of Arc’s chain mail. Rabanne’s evocation is far more like liquid poetry than the harsh prose of Joan’s reality.
(Left) Paco Rabanne, Evening Dress c. 1973, aluminium, silk. (Right) Versace, by Gianni Versace, Evening Dress Autumn/Winter 1994, metal mesh, leather, lurex velvet; printed.It’s a rather tenuous premise on which to base an exhibition (almost as slender a thread as my comparison of Rabanne with Joan); notably the pieces are drawn predominantly from the NGV’s collection. But who has not thought fashion a rather frivolous pursuit at one time or another? It is still a very enjoyable exhibition to view.
The exhibition runs until 27 June, 2010.