Easy On the Lobes
Out of all the accessories in a woman’s wardrobe today, jewellery alone serves no purpose except decoration. (Unless of course you are a monarch or aristocrat wearing ostentatious jewellery for the noble purpose of stunning your subjects into submission by the sheer size of your baubles.)
Historically, jewellery was used to indicate identity or status, but the popularity of earrings in particular was subject to the changes in fashion of hairstyles, headwear and necklines. If the ears were hidden earrings were obviously superfluous; equally so if the hairstyle or headdress was elaborate.
Dancing girls wearing girdles, earrings, bracelets and armlets, and female musicians wearing earrings, broad collars, bracelets, armlets and finger-rings; detail of a wall-painting from the tomb of Nebamun, W Thebes, 18th Dynasty. Image from Ancient Egyptian Jewelry by Carol Andrews; Abrams 1991.
Original screwbacks: a pair of Tutankhamun's gold earrings inlaid mostly with coloured glass; c. 1336-1327 BC. D 5.2cm.Although pierced earrings were worn in the Middle East as far back as 3000 BC, times changed, and many millennia later, piercing one’s ears was considered barbaric – possibly because it was indeed reminiscent of tribal violence, slavery, and other unsanitary notions. (I wonder what they would think of today’s fashion for multiple piercings?)
When screw-back earrings were patented in 1894, and sleeker hairstyles were adopted, earrings once again became popular. This popularity led to the invention of clip backs, which were patented in 1934. It was not until the 1960s that pierced ears again came back into vogue: movie stars, models and the emerging fashion magazine industry inspiring women to emulate their style.
Famous earrings of the past: Vermeer’s Girl With a Pearl Earring, c 1665. (Click on image for larger version.)I remember clip-ons during the Eighties. I wore them before I had my ears pierced, and found them mostly either useless (the earrings slipped off) or incredibly painful (the metal clamps like a deathgrip on my lobes). Pierced earrings are ultimately just more convenient.
However, I had never tried old-fashioned screw-backs before I bought these quaint ceramic earrings from a charity shop earlier this year. They are navy blue with copper polka-dots, and a copper glaze overall. The elderly lady who sold them to me warned me that they were screw-backs; I dismissed that paltry consideration and handed over $4.
I cursed the inventor of screw-backs and pondered the gullibility of women everywhere, suffering atrocities for the sake of fashion.
Wow! Two of my favourites combined into one: earrings AND shoes! Vintage 1940s enamel earrings from Vicious Vintage on Etsy. (No longer available.)When I arrived home and excitedly pulled them out to try on, I discovered they were as agonising to wear as those infamous Eighties baroque gold pearl chandelier clip-ons I had once owned. I cursed the inventor of screw-backs and pondered the gullibility of women everywhere, suffering atrocities for the sake of fashion.
But just last week I was forced to retract my vows of hatred! I found the prettiest, sparkliest vintage necklace and earring set at the Salvos. A gorgeous lolly pink, the dangling teardrops on the gold necklace looked like bonbons. The earrings were screw-backs, and bravely I ventured to try them on. At first I thought I hadn’t attached them, but when I tugged, I discovered I had – they just didn’t hurt at all!
I didn’t buy the set though, as the little button-like earrings were just not quite ostentatious enough for me.