Cotton Picking

Mercerised cotton balloon-sleeved top by Kookaï. (The flowers are dried Australian billy buttons.)Who has noticed on their fabric content tags the description ‘mercerised cotton’, and wondered what exactly is the difference between it and ordinary cotton? I knew it was supposed to be better quality, but when my sisters and I were discussing it recently I could not explain why.

Simply, mercerised cotton is softer, stronger, and more lustrous than ordinary cotton. It absorbs dye more readily, making it popular with clothing manufacturers. Also, while it is resistant to mildew, you may find garments form lint more easily.

…mercerised cotton is softer,
stronger, and more lustrous than ordinary cotton.

The fibres are treated with sodium hydroxide in a chemical bath, which causes the cell walls to swell and soften – thereby increasing the surface area and reflectance.

The method takes its name from the Englishman John Mercer, who first developed it in 1844. However, it was not until 1890 that the process became popular, when Horace Lowe improved it by applying the mercerising treatment while the fabric was held under tension – which is what increases the lustre. This is the method still used today.

In my own closet I have noticed that the labels Kookaï and DeCjuba utilise it, although only it remains to be seen if they stand the test of time.

I learned more than I really needed to during research – if you really want to know the nitty-gritty, click here.