Springtime Fantasies

Vogue, April 1928, illustrated by George Lepape, from In Vogue (Rizzoli 2006)

I always enjoy looking at vintage fashion illustrations, especially of the nineteen-teensies and twenties. The linework is so elegant – sometimes austere in a geometric Art Deco style, and sometimes extravagant, such as the carefree handwriting that forms the masthead and the lady driver’s scarf on this spring 1928 cover. The colour palette is often subtle or minimal, the imagery fanciful and very romantic.

But what was inside? I’ve never seen one of these early issues in hard copy, and must refer to Norbeto Angeletti and Alberto Oliva’s book In Vogue (Rizzoli, 2006) for a few spreads (below). Condé Nast’s intentions for the magazine he proclaimed thus: ‘Vogue is the technical adviser – the consulting specialist – to the woman of fashion in the matter of her clothes and of her personal adornment.’

… the English were ‘considered to be the most elegant and to have the best taste, especially if they had noble titles.’

Back then, it was paramount to report on the London scene, as the English were ‘considered to be the most elegant and to have the best taste, especially if they had noble titles.’ This is rather amusing considering that the French Chambre syndicale de la haute couture is the holiest of holies today, and French women supposedly the chicest of all! The Paris fashion scene was still of course covered exhaustively. 

With the outbreak of World War I, French couture was in a state of crisis, as many designers and dressmakers joined the ranks or the Red Cross, and their ateliers were fashioning bandages and uniforms instead of fantasies. In America, this lead to an opportunity for local designers. Following are pages from the December 1914 issue showcasing the designs of Bendel, Gunther, Tappé, Maison Jacquelin and Bergdorf Goodman.

It’s lovely to see these pictorials, but for me, it is still the delightful cover artwork – French or not – that makes me sigh ooh la la! Enjoy these lovely springtime covers.

See more vintage Vogue covers in the Vintage Vogue 2011 gallery of my calendar from last year, or visit Miss Moss or Musie.

Vogue April 1910, illustrated by Helen Dryden, from my 2011 calendarVogue March 1916, illustrated by Helen Dryden, from In Vogue (Rizzoli 2006)Vogue April 1914, illustrated by Helen Dryden, from MusieVogue March 1914, from Musie