Parure Brilliance
‘Parure’ is not a term that one hears often these days anywhere, except perhaps whispered dulcetly in suitably hushed and reverential tones into the ear of some duchess clandestinely visiting exclusive purveyors of very expensive jewellery. Even when the word ‘parure’ was bandied about by the lips of the vulgar masses, it was only in reference to the fantastic adornments bedecking royalty and aristocrats.
In common parlance, a parure is a set of matching jewellery. The word comes from old French pareure, from parer to prepare, or adorn, and was first used in the eighteenth century. The craftsmen under the Sun King, Louis XIV, were credited with the first parure creations; diamonds, often paired with silver, were popular then. Members of court would vie with one another to create the most elaborate and astonishing sets, and to increase their status. Napoleon, for all his fledgling socialism, adored adorning his wives with brilliants (an old-fashioned word for diamonds, and a style of gem-cutting today). At least he shared his wealth with both his wives.
Napoleon’s sister Princess Pauline Borghese wears a parure of engraved gems with the diamonds of the belt and bandeau arranged in Greek key design. (Detail of a portrait by Robert Lefèvre.)Of course, a parure is more than merely a set of matching jewels, and the most fantastic sets were reserved for royalty and the wealthy. A parure was considered an essential part of a society woman’s wardrobe, and would define her status and political power. A set could include an extraordinary quantity of items, such as a necklace, comb, tiara, diadem (more like a crown, and bigger and better than a tiara), bandeau (a narrow band worn around the hair to hold it in position), a pair of bracelets, pins, rings, drop earrings or cluster stud earrings, a brooch, and a belt clasp that might be worn over a fine dress. Only.
Opaline paste jewellery set in silver, including girandole earrings, necklace and buttons, probably French, c. 1760. The ‘opals’ are made by laying a pink foil behind milky blue glass.
A French parure of gold, cornelian and seed pearls, comprising a comb, necklace, pair of bracelets, earrings, two pins and two rings. In its completeness it is a rare survival from the years of the First Empire.And even more interestingly, a parure was more than the sum of its parts: some necklaces could be disassembled into smaller items such as bracelets, pendants, and hair ornaments or brooches with clever components and locking systems. A bit like a posh mix ‘n’ match.
… a parure was more than the sum of its parts: some necklaces could be disassembled into smaller items …
The mind boggles at the vision conjured up, and the only jewels I have seen in modern times to rival such a litany are the parures made for brides in the gold souqs of Dubai, which are unutterably jaw-dropping – and probably literally knee-buckling from sheer weightiness.
A fantasy of pearls, turquoise and gold I photographed in the gold souqs of Dubai in 2008.My very humble vintage rhinestone parure consists of 1940s necklace, earrings, tiara and bracelet, and a 1950s ring. All were collected at different times; the necklace and earrings I bought as a set when I was in my teens, from a store called The Jazz Garter (what an evocative name!) in Sydney. They were probably my very first real vintage purchases – as opposed to charity shop garments. Even back then I had brilliant taste.
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Jewellery images from Jewelry – From Antiquity to the Present by Clare Phillips (Thames & Hudson, 1996), and additional information courtesy of Wikipedia.