Fawning Over Fédora

Theft

Did you know the fedora hat was originally designed for women? I was not in possession of this sartorial fact until recently. But it is men who have most commonly worn it (until recent decades at least), misappropriating it in the 1920s (in emulation of the Prince of Wales) and ruining its reputation by consorting with gangsters and bootleggers and other unsavoury types, such as financiers and advertising cads executives on Madison Avenue (Don Draper, I’m lookin’ at you).

I am outraged at this outright theft. Men are always stealing our clothes, like the trouser, and the oversized shirt that fits them properly, and the so-called boyfriend sweater (which was really a girlfriend sweater first) … ahem. 

History

There once was actually a Princess Fédora. I cannot believe that I was ignorant of this important information. Well, okay, she was actually a fictional character, but that’s just a petty detail. She existed in a play by the dramatist Victorien Sardou, written for the great Sarah Bernhardt in 1882.

Sarah Bernhardt. Click image for larger version.Bernhardt – and this I also did not know – was a notorious cross-dresser, and she wore a centre-creased, soft brimmed hat in the play. After its appearance on the American stage in 1889, women’s rights activists adopted the stylish yet practical hat. Then along came Prince Edward and it was all over for us girls until the 1970s.

Vital Statistics

Fedoras are creased lengthwise down the crown, and usually pinched in the front on both sides. The crease comes in many shapes, including teardrops and diamonds, while the exact position of the pinches can vary. This fawn fedora (top) has a teardrop crease, with two delicate pinches on either side, and the height of its crown is also exactly the typical 11.4cm (4.5”). Brims usually are about 6.3cm (2.5”), but can vary; mine is 10cm, or 4”, which gives it its dramatic appearance. Black, grey, tan, and dark brown are the most common masculine colours, but modern fedoras can be found in many colours. 

The Trilby

The trilby is actually a type of fedora, but its brim is shorter, with the front angled down and the back slightly turned up – to saucy effect. I have a rather fetching red trilby (above) which features this design, but at the sides. 

So now that you know the distinguished history of the fedora, wear it with respect ladies – and gents (I’m lookin’ at you).