Grass Roots

I am not sure if it is the connotations of summer that I love so much about woven accessories, or if it is the very tactile pleasure of the texture beneath one’s fingertips. I prefer them in more natural, neutral colours than dyed brightly—although further down this story there’s a pair of Hermès tomato red wedges that I might we willing to put on my feet, if I was willing to pay the trifling sum of $1,355. I also love the fact that these very solid objects have been constructed from such seemingly flimsy materials.

Weaving is a beautiful technique evocative of ephemeral nature made to last …

Weaving is a beautiful technique evocative of ephemeral nature made to last, of admirable dexterity and artistry. Traditionally a distinctly feminine craft, it alludes to tribal histories, to earth mothers (and experimental couturiers) keeping ethnic crafts alive, by appealing to acquisitive fashionistas of more urban jungles.

It really seems such a simple, elemental and practical craft, but it is amazing to see what can be achieved with a good eye for design, nimble fingers and patience. It’s also simply beautiful.

A few of my own favourites

I was delighted when I spotted this vintage basket case (ha!) in an op shop (thrift store) a few weeks ago, for the princely sum of $3. Two of the hinges at the base were completely broken, and I had to repair them – I was in a hurry to use this as part of a costume for a fancy dress party, so I used what I had nearest to hand: some twine that camouflaged well. It wasn’t easy to weave it through the flush hinges, but waxing the end did help. My original intention was to use it for storage; scarves perhaps.

The hat I pounced on last summer at Country Road, recognising it for its—ahem—‘inspirational’ source: a hat by Burberry (see below). I do love it though for a fun sunhat: it’s far more edgy than a regular floppy cartwheel, and much less common than a fedora.

I purchased the slingbacks on eBay from a Frenchwoman who told me although she liked the shoes, she couldn’t wear them because they were too low! They feature a pretty, geometric pattern in black and natural straw. I have a sneaking fondness for the kitten heel, which often seems to get a bad rap in fashion magazines simply for not being as sexy as a stiletto.

I also absolutely adore this lovely little woven handbag. It too came from an op shop, and my guess that it is someone’s travel souvenir, bought on a whim then discarded in a nonplussed moment. I really like the intricate design in the weaving of this one, and the handles are plaited – a pretty, extra little detail.

When to Wear

If it’s not enough to say such materials are too (visually) synonymous with summer to wear in winter, then at least, while I don’t subscribe to prescriptive fashion rules (such as no white after Labour Day – which is American anyway and doesn’t apply here in Australia but still sounds ludicrous to me), one must be pragmatic about straw, grass, raffia, cane, et al. They are not suitable for winter simply for the fact that any sudden downpour is likely to ruin them! Obviously, they won’t keep you very warm either.

High Fashion

Weaving has enjoyed a season in the brilliant sun of high fashion in recent seasons, with Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Burberry all taking a hand. Some of these garments are deliciously impractical and incongruous, such as the sculptural and quite surreal D&G corsets and dresses, but I enjoy them all the more for it. I adore the Burberry trench too (above), but really, when is it suitable to wear? Not in winter surely, and such a closely-fitted coat (probably silk-lined to boot) in warm weather? Or am I merely forgetting the chilly realities of what the British humorously term ‘summer’?

Scroll down for some couture inspiration. (Admittedly these tearsheets are probably a year or two old, but I still love them.)

Photos: December 2015