Captivating Style

On the weekend while visiting the Ian Potter Centre at Federation Square, I wandered through the fashion exhibition Captivating Style, 1950s Melbourne for a second time. It celebrates the work of Melbourne fashion designer Hall Ludlow, milliner Thomas Harrison and photographer Athol Shmith.

Although the exhibition is very small (it would be amazing if it was three times the size at least), it is still full of some exquisite examples of mid twentieth century fashion.

Hats by Thomis HarrisonTurban of draped and stitched sisal, trimmed with cubes of wood; by Thomas HarrisonThomas Harrison (1897–81) established his own millinery house in Collins St, Melbourne in 1929, and it operated until 1981 – a magnificent length of time by anyone’s standards. His salon was decorated with eighteenth-century furniture, an opulent setting for showing two seasonal collections a year. In addition, Harrison created bespoke hats for regular clients.

Hall Ludlow’s stunning coat with architctural lines is made of wool, acetate and plastic Hall Ludlow immigrated to Australia in 1947 from New Zealand, and, like Harrison, opened a boutique on Collins St. It was also similarly and lavishly furnished with satin drapes, gilded mirrors, golden cherubs and chandeliers. The consummate couturier, Ludlow handled everything, from fabric selection to finishing, often working without patterns as he cut his avant-garde designs.

This lustrous gown makes a feature of the décolletage with a high-standing collar and v-shaped neckline framed by fine rows of parallel stitching, one of Ludlow’s signaturesThe four garments shown were donated to the National Gallery of Victoria by Peggy Stone, who was a longstanding client and friend of the designer. She commissioned him to create numerous special occasion dresses that she wore to business conferences and balls she attended with her husband.

Leah McCartney, c 1954, by Athol ShmithBeauty, 1950s, by Athol ShmithAthol Shmith was a celebrated fashion photographer whose career spanned more than fifty years. He began to photograph in the early 1930s, working from a studio in St Kilda before he two moved to the ‘Paris End’ of town in Collins St. Adopting European trends of clean lines, sharp angles and dramatic lighting, his work became synonymous with sophisticated and modern glamour.

Model Virginia Grey, 1951, by Athol ShmithCurrently showing at NGV Australia in the Ian Potter Centre. Visit the exhibition and add a touch of vintage elegance to your day. Open 10am–5pm, Tue-Sun; entry is free.