Twisted Teardrops: A Short History of Paisley
Once upon a time there was a boutique called Lost Vegas. It was very funky and perfectly catered to the whimsical desires of an art student. During one particularly mad moment I purchased a very early 90s midriff-baring top with enormous bell sleeves, masses of fringing and a riotous multicoloured paisley print. It only took me a few hours to come to my senses, and I returned it the next day. That was my last foray into paisley purchases.
How a cashmere shawl was worn in 1865 over a crinoline… An original cost £70-100 back in the day. Image from victoriana.com.
Paisley takes its Western name from the Scottish town where much of the high quality textile was manufactured during the 19th century. However, it of course originates in the East: in Persia and India. The twisted teardrop shape has associations with various flora (mangos, palm trees, pines and cypresses) as well as religious themes of life and eternity. In Paisley up to 15 colours could be woven at once, but that was still only one quarter of the colours used in the glorious shawls imported from Kashmir by the East India Company.
The paisley motif has been used to decorate Persian royal and commoner garments alike; draped the shoulders 
A modern-day pure pashmina paisley shawl (6.7ft x 3.5ft) will set you back $356.25 (on sale from $475). Image from exoticindiaart.com.of nineteenth century European aristocrats; adorned the furnishings of Uzbekistan and Iran – and finally it became a symbol of rebellion during the Summer of Love, its swirling patterns a perfect expression of psychedelic visual art.
…finally it became a symbol of rebellion during the Summer of Love…
Earlier this year a sudden and inexplicable desire for paisley arose in me once more. I decided to trawl Etsy and eBay for something a little more interesting than the traditional Kashmiri shawl. I found this sweet vintage bag, embroidered and beaded with a paisley pattern on pretty raspberry silk. The finely woven silk shawl (also found on Etsy) is not paisley, but complements the bag beautifully anyway.
But I really should have kept that 70s-inspired top from Lost Vegas.
For a wonderful much longer history of Kashmiri shawls, click here.