The Breathtaking Jeanne Lanvin

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16 Oct

Pochoir illustration for a Lanvin invitation to the private fashion show held within the boutique; 1910–1912.

Lanvin, by Dean L. Merceron, Rizzoli 2007Out of all my fashion books, this large-format book Lanvin has to be one of the most beautiful, both in subject matter and presentation.

The book traces the history of the House of Lanvin, mostly covering the work of its founder, Jeanne Lanvin. The House was opened in 1909 and has survived in near-continuous existence to the present day (with Alber Elbaz currently at the helm). Like Chanel, Lanvin began with millinery. Then came the exquisitely detailed, sophisticated and successful range of children’s wear; her muse was her own daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche.

1920s hats

In the book, Merceron writes:

The designs of Madame Lanvin had various readily identifiable characteristics including beading and embroidery, ethnographic inspiration, sublime combinations of texture and textiles, and, most of all, original use of colour.

And throughout the book, this is made evident by hundreds of images: archival sketches and photographs, and contemporary photography. It’s absolutely wonderful to see spread upon spread of original sketches side by side with pictures of models of the day, as well as full colour images of the garment in whole and in detail. The attention to fine detail in these couture garments is utterly breathtaking.

(Left) Georges Lepape illustration, 1924; early 1920s dress and hat; (right) late 1930s hats

Actress Jane Renouardt in a robe de style featuring a pearl and crystal bow; 1925Fashion lover or fashion student, there is so much to be learned from this book; even merely reading the captions accompanying the images on the 300+ pages provides a wealth of information. There is a short epilogue on Alber Elbaz, but this mainly covers catwalk images and advertising campaigns, and provides little information of interest. Normally $85, and currently on sale for just over US$50 on Amazon, Lanvin is an expensive investment, but well worth it.

Scroll down for more images. (Click for larger versions.)

Metallic lamé robe de style; 1922Appliqué detail and rendering of ‘Marche Nuptiale’; 1923

Illustration created for the Brazilian market of mother and child in gowns; around 1925

‘Brimborion’, a modernised version of a kimono with sliced sleeves, 1923; appliqué detail and rendering of ‘Veronique’, 1925

Front and back views of a black silk chiffon evening gown, created for the collection of winter 1948–49

Evening dress, 1936; detail of gilt kidskin strips appliquéd onto white silk chiffon. An identical linear pattern is present on some of the angel robes painted by Fra Angelico.

‘Fausta’, winter 1928, a navy blue silk chiffon dress over a navy blue silk crepe underpinning; the original gouache design; Princess de Faucigny-Lucinge wearing ‘Fausta’.