Jet Set

It was the original Queen Victoria who made a fetish of mourning way back when, and who was responsible for Victorian England’s obsession with death: which included jewellery made from human hair, memento-mori photographs (portraits of deceased loved ones), a love of taxidermy and collecting other old dead things, be they trilobites or butterflies pinned to card.

But one of the prettiest manifestations must be jet beaded clothing and accessories. Mourning was strictly observed (read my full story here), but that didn’t mean one could not be fashionable. A jet-beaded collar is one such beautiful, awe-inspiring accessory.

French mourning dress, by Charlotte Duclos, c. 1910; from The Metropolitan Museum of ArtMy modern interpretation of a Victorian style shawl is by Australian label Witchery (or it could have been Sportsgirl – the label is missing), and is just about one of the loveliest things I own – and that’s saying something! I originally purchased it in a charity shop for $25, but by chance I saw it recently in an old marie-claire magazine, and found the original retail price was $100. It really is beautifully made, embroidered with seed and bugle beads and sequins on a very fine net that is almost invisible, yet it has a distinct weight that betokens quality. I like it paired with this silk drop-waist top – it creates a kind of Victorian x Flapper hybrid silhouette.

DetailJust in case you’d like to purchase one of these jet-beaded capelets for yourself, I’ve found a few pretty examples on Etsy for you – just scroll down and click to buy. 

Victorian, black organdie jet embroidered collar, French, c1890-1910; click through to Etsy store La BohemeBeaded capelet, 1930s; click through to Etsy store BohemiennesAntique beaded capelet; click through to Etsy store Mary Beth Hale