Saving Brown

Dramatic full fat shape and sheen make this chocolate brown jacket exciting

Brown is dull

It’s no coincidence that shades of brown are often named after yummy things: chocolate, caramel, cinnamon, latte, coffee, walnut, chestnut, etc. It’s the fashion industry’s sneaky way of trying to make us buy into this boring hue.

Texas desert

Brown is everywhere

Possibly the commonest colour in nature apart from green, brown is seen in wood, soil, peat, animal fur, human hair, skin pigmentation and other plant life such as nuts, seeds and withered leaves. The earthy tone can be associated with autumn, humility (think of a monk’s dun-coloured habit), and, let’s face it … um, how shall I phrase it politely? I know you know what I’m talking about … yes, poo. One person’s caramel is another’s baby-poo brown. (Sorry, that’s gross. But memorable. Just don’t Google that term. And don’t say I didn’t warn you if you do!)

Brown is old

The word comes from Old English brún, named for any dusky or dark shade of colour. The first recorded use of the spelling change to ‘brown’ was in 1000, and the current meaning derived from Middle English in the fourteenth century.

Brown is practical

Some brown shades seem particularly suited to practical boots, shoes, and warm winter outerwear, possibly because historically people used animal skins to fashion these: the wool of sheep and goats, camelhair, cowhide and other leather, and furs. The camel coat for instance – whether camel by fibre or merely in colour – remains a true classic today.

Calf leather jacket and fox fur cap: vintage hides in rich hues are lit up with a 70s sky blue blouseKaviar Gauche camel coat, 2011Everything is brown in Peasantworld. They might be dancing, but are they truly having fun, dressed in brown? Peasants Dancing Outside an Inn, by David Teniers the Younger, (1610–1690)

Brown is staid

Perhaps it is because before the creation of inexpensive commercial dyes, coloured cloth was associated with the wealthy – the common people wore natural earthy shades in their everyday clothing. It is also a practical colour: it is less likely to show dirt or stains. Definitely not romantic.

Brown is not showy

Brown recedes into the background. The popular conception of the aforementioned monk is a rotund and balding little man scuttling about in a rough brown tunic – hardly an alluring figure. And after all, how often does one see a Hollywood starlet wearing a glamorous gown in brown, really? The only person I have ever heard claim a liking for brown is my friend Rapunzel, who has red hair. Supposedly brown suits redheads. Colour theorists clutching at straws, I say. 

Friar Tuck, one of Robin Hood’s band of merry men A vintage 50s mink and apricot satin halo bandeau are matched with a dusky pink blouseA warm golden brown contrasts strongly with soft pink

Brown is rescued!

Offset by other prettier hues however, brown can become more palatable. In particular, light shades of blue, pink, lilac, or mint look wonderful with brown. By this rule it should follow that yellow or orange would harmonise with brown too, yes? Here it becomes a matter of personal taste; such a colour palette is too earthy for me.

… remember SNAP’s little mantra on brown: perk it up, don’t tone it down

A vintage 50s russet feather toque heads into startling territory with the addition of a bold ostrich feather, and the blouse that shimmers between mauve and lilac is slightly and deliciously off a matching tone.

By the same token, brown is inoffensive with white, cream, or some shades of grey, though black works best with lighter shades like camel or beige, but to my mind it is too easy to match brown with other neutrals, and therefore it is uninteresting. It’s all about the contrasts: a strong hot or candy pink is fabulous with fawn or taupe, likewise with vivid turquoise or unshrinking violet. 

Just remember SNAP’s little mantra on brown: perk it up, don’t tone it down – and you won’t go wrong. 

Back to chocolate brown: a 50s wool toque trimmed with mink pompoms is paired with the brightest cobalt and violet 50s frock.