Gaultier’s Wonderland
Odyssey (nautical striped and mermaid themes)
The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier
From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk
Ahead of my forthcoming visit to the NGV’s exhibition 200 Years of Australian Fashion in a couple of weekends, I suddenly remembered I had never reported on the extraordinary exhibit of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s oeuvre that showed in Melbourne in October 2014–February 2015: The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier.
I don’t think I’ve ever before seen such a mind-blowing array of fashion! When I opened the folder of images my heart literally fluttered with excitement as once more I beheld that French visionary’s work. On Sunday I saw the excellent and fascinating documentary, The First Monday in May, the man himself declared (as did Karl Lagerfeld) that he didn’t consider himself an ‘artist’, but simply a designer [of a commercial enterprise]. I don’t know … I think I may beg to differ! Some fashion certainly is ordinary and practical or even pedestrian, but some designers take it to such a high level that their skill and vision is comparable to art.
Punk Cancan (intricately woven leather boots)The travelling exhibition featured over 140 pieces of Gaultier’s work, from his first dress created in 1971 to his latest haute couture and prêt-a-porter collections, as well as costumes and gowns worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Kylie Minogue and Nicole Kidman, and the famous cone-bra lingerie sported by Madonna.
The exhibition design was wonderful and brought the garments to life in seven rooms, each designed to showcase different themes in Gaultier’s work: Odyssey, The Boudoir, Punk Cancan, Skin Deep, Metropolis, Urban Jungle and Muses (you can read about them here). Some of the mannequins had animated faces projected on them (amusing and eerie); there was a moving catwalk and enormous graffiti murals in Punk Cancan; an incredible hall of mirrors in Metropolis; and sculptural effects using stretched white fabric with shapes pushed through in the final Muses room. The audio-visual guide was also excellent, providing much additional information.
Overall, the exquisite detail and construction (and deconstruction) of so many of the garments impressed me the most …
Metropolis (a jaw-dropping, floor-length feather headdress)I asked myself what I might consider my favourite pieces, and I would be hard-pressed to choose. Overall, the exquisite detail and construction (and deconstruction) of so many of the garments impressed me the most: beading, embroidery, delicate lace, intricately woven leather-work – all just so amazing. Not to mention the wonders of Gaultier’s imagination. I did find that I happened to take a lot of photographs of each of the all-white outfits, which does show a clear preference of mine. The Skin Deep (red-lit) section was the smallest, and many of the garments were displayed on a second level, so it was impossible to see them up close – fetishistic gear is probably not my favourite style anyway!
Urban Jungle (an extraordinary headdress made from antique Spanish mantilla combs)
Urban JungleI took nearly 200 photos, but I have managed to edit them down to 130 in a gallery that will give you a great overview of all there was to see. I am looking forward to the Australian Fashion exhibition, so stay tuned for a report – and a big gallery no doubt – in a few weeks time! In the meantime, enjoy viewing Jean-Paul Gaultier’s breathtaking work.
Muse (if memory serves me correctly, this was a gown worn by Nicole Kidman