CELERY… CELERIA… CELADON!

What a lovely word – and colour – is celadon. (I’m trying to ignore the fact that it is also perilously close to celery. I actually like celery to eat, but it just doesn’t bring anything to the table here [erm, sorry]. Is anyone else thinking this, or have I just ruined it for everyone?) … LET’S START AGAIN.

What a lovely word – and colour – is celadon. (OH NO – a worse vegetable just popped into my head! I’m not even going to say this one aloud.)

Chinese Longquan celadon from Zhejiang, Song Dynasty, 13th centuryCeladon is the name given to a type of glazed ceramic ware originating in ancient China. It subsequently spread to other parts of Asia, including Northern Thailand, Japan and Korea, and was exported throughout Asia, the Middle-East and Europe. Celadon glaze can be produced in various shades: white, grey, blue, yellow and green, depending on the type clay and ingredients of the glaze. Green, however, was historically the most popular shade, and so it became associated with the term ‘celadon’.

A modern bud vase in blue celadonGreen celadon originally mimicked the precious stone jade – in a similar way as the faience of ancient Egypt intended to imitate turquoise and lapis lazuli – and hues range from very pale yellow-tinted greens to deep blue-greens.

A scene from The Romance of Astrea and Celadon, a film by Éric Rohmer, one of my favourite directors. I must watch this.It was European collectors of the wares who first coined the term ‘celadon’. One theory – the most romantic of three – places the origin in 17th century France, and Honoré d’Urfé’s book L’Astrée (1627). In it, Celadon, a shepherd, wore pale green ribbons – presumably during the time he posed as a woman in the hope of winning his true love’s heart, the shepherdess Astrée (a novel approach).

Here is a pretty little gallery of celadon.

Links belowCeladon, Marian Yap, 2012Crinkle maxi skirt, vintage 80s from Deer Stop Vintage Home on Etsy 
Designers Guild cushion in Celadon Giacosa, from Cherryellie Designs
Wool mohair sweater, vintage 70s, from Bottega Vintage on Etsy 

The backdrop in the main image is a picture of the exterior of the Blue Souq in Sharjah, UAE.

Ó Ceallaigh Green

Kelly green is such a lovely shade of green: strong, bright and happy. I always thought it was an American term, and an odd one at that, after a person’s name.

Then I looked it up and discovered that the description in fact originated in Ireland, and was first used in 1917 – because of the excess population answering to the name of Kelly, and the popularity of the colour green. How funny! 

The green, green hills of Ireland – amazing

The surname Kelly is actually the Anglicised form of the Irish Ó Ceallaigh, although it has also transferred to a given name for males and females.

Of course, over a million Irish emigrated during the terrible Potato Famine in the late 1840s, many to America, which explains the popularity of the term there.

Here’s a little collection of Kelly green, but the ultimate, you must admit, would have to be a Kelly bag in Kelly green. 

Click for a closer lookKelly greens from (left to right):

1. Photo by Tim Walker, British Vogue, Nov 2010
2. Vintage transparent bugle beads from Bead Paradise
3. Kendra tote by Cole Haan at Style Mojo
4. Madeline Weinrib fabric ikat cushion at Digs 
5. Striped straws pinned by Michael Miller Fabrics 
6. Miles Redd kitchen cabinets at Chinoiserie Chic
7. The Irish shamrock 

Trademark Blue

My favourite colour is robin’s egg blue. It is such a lovely, clear colour, soothing in its purity. One glimpse of it in a shop and I’m drawn unerringly to pick it up.

To be specific, I prefer the paler rendition of robin’s egg – a shade actually trademarked by Tiffany & Co – than the darker shade sometimes seen, and which is more like turquoise. Tiffany’s has even trademarked the name ‘Robin egg blue’, as well as the Pantone shade #1837, the exact formula of which is a secret from the world –it takes its number from the year Tiffany’s was founded.

Real robin’s egg blueA perfect match!A match ‘maid’ in heavenAlthough I admire some of Tiffany’s elegant designs, it is not a brand I particularly covet – especially not their diamond rings, usually beloved of brides-to-be everywhere. (I once was engaged, and my ring was set with a South Sea pearl, not a diamond.) So my love of the instantly recognisable shade has nothing to do with its fame in Western culture. I do like their packaging though.

Happily the colour suits me so I can indulge my love for Tiffany blue through fashion. Whatever you like to call it: turquoise, cerulean, aqua, robin’s egg blue or even Tiffany blue, I find it delicious, and I’m not the only one. 

Robin’s egg hueA soothing interiorMum thinks I need gumboots this winter

Vintage canisters on Etsy (sold already, darn it)And for sheer whimsy …Even Grace liked it – who could argue with that?

Widow’s Weeds

Really a Portuguese widow, stalking the treacherous cobbled streets of the Alfama district in LisbonBlack is, and has been for a long time, the colour of mourning in much of the western world, so it is interesting that the picture of a black-garbed, mourning widow is popularly associated with the Italians. Perhaps this is because in some parts of Italy it is customary for a grieving widow to never put off her blacks. In fact, this is also common in areas of Russia, Czechoslovakia, Greece, Portugal, Spain and Mexico.

The original ‘Italian widow’ is of course Queen Victoria, famous for her long grief over the death of her beloved Albert. However, strict social rules regarding mourning dress had been established long before Victoria ascended the throne.

Mourning ensemble, 1870

The Rules

Victorian jet mourning broochA widow was expected to mourn her husband for up to four years, which required her to lead a quiet, sober life as well as don the black apparel that showed respect for the decedent. To put off her blacks earlier was to court scandal and, if she was still young and attractive, risk a tarnished reputation as a loose woman.

During the first year of ‘full mourning’ her costume was black and constructed from matt fabric such as crêpe. Decorative trim too was simple, but especially non-reflective – hence the popularity of jet (gemstones cut from fossilised carbon) in the Victorian age*. Even her accessories were black, from shoes and parasols to fans and handkerchiefs. Frivolous hats were strictly forbidden; in their place simple black bonnets and heavy veils were worn.

Mourning bonnet, 1870s (usually worn with veil attached)

Mourning fan, 1887–89

Mourning dress, 1850s

Mourning coat, 1907Mourning dress, 1880

Mourning cape, 1895–1900

Mourning parasol, 1895–1900After a year had passed, a widow entered ‘half mourning’, and grey and lavender could be introduced into her wardrobe, and the widow could now sedately re-enter society, which had been proscribed to her during full mourning.

Unsurprisingly, a complete wardrobe makeover was costly, particularly for the lower classes, and overdying existing garments was a practical way to reduce the expense.

The rather picturesque term ‘widow’s weeds’ comes from the Old English word ‘waed’, which means ‘garment’ …

The rather picturesque term ‘widow’s weeds’ comes from the Old English word ‘waed’, which means ‘garment’, and it is easy to imagine what a somber vision these ladies must have presented on the streets of London, enveloped as they were in acres of fabric. The weight alone must have bowed their shoulders if grief did not!

Fashion Notes

I have often remarked that I rarely wear all black, and one of the main reasons is that I feel far too somber and funereal in it. The last time I wore this ensemble (many years ago now, with different skirt and shoes and sans veil – basically only the crocheted lace top and silhouette is the same!) a co-worker exclaimed that I looked like an Italian widow. I rather like this little outfit however – perhaps because it is so thematic, rather than everyday wear that happens to be black.

~

Gwyneth Paltrow in Possession (2002) *There is an interesting scene in the film Possession, (adapted from A.S. Byatt’s book of the same name), starring Gwyneth Paltrow, in which her character visits an antiques store in Whitby, England, to trace the origins of a jet brooch. (Incidentally, I really like Paltrow’s costumes in this film.)

Historical costume images from The Metropolitan Museum of Art, except for jet brooch. Click on images for further details on individual pieces. 

The Good Luck Girl

Inspired by my vintage Chinese advertising poster of the Club Cosmetics girl, I bring you the Good Luck Girl. For how else to celebrate Chinese New Year than all decked out in red?

In the Chinese culture, red corresponds to fire, and symbolises good fortune and joy. And, according to Wikipedia, courage, loyalty, honour, success, passion, fertility and summer. No wonder brides traditionally wear red.

And in this Year of the Water Dragon, aptly my red jade bangle is carved with a dragon, goldfish and lotus blossoms. The ring is also red jade, carved with swirls and curlicues. My necklace is an oriental fan, carved from cinnabar, and my gloriously red paper umbrella was bought at last year’s Chinese New Year festival for just $2. The silk dress is an old favourite, by Pepe Jeans.

Good fortune and joy, from your favourite Good Luck Girl!