Thou Shalt Throw Away Worn Out Shoes

THE SEVENTH FASHION COMMANDMENT

This heel just snapped under me as I walked to work. Tragic.You might think shoes, because they are so far away from your face, or are covered by long hems, won’t be noticed. Wrong. Or perhaps you just aren’t into shoes, fashionable or otherwise – all you care about is comfort, and regardless of the occasion or the shoes’ condition, you might think they will bypass people’s attention. They will not, and beware: like it or not, fair or not, you will be judged.

The fashion-aware will consciously do so, and not even necessarily in a condemnatory way; those not so interested in such frivolities as clothing may only subliminally notice – but in both cases sloppiness or inappropriate footwear will be noted and will affect others’ perception of you. It only takes seven seconds to make a first impression.

shoes have an uncanny ability to make, or break an outfit …

Once, I was attending an opening night at the ballet with a sister who was visiting from out-of-town. She hadn’t come prepared for gala evenings out, and she wore plain black, serviceable walking shoes. ‘That’s all I have with me,’ she protested at my aghast expression. ‘At least they are new and clean,’ she added, as if that ameliorated all her sins. I wore my red glitter Mary-Janes, and guess who did get noticed and admired by ladies squeezing past our seats, on their way to their own? Granted, those shoes are very eye-catching, but it was not my shoes politely being ignored. 

My sister’s saving grace was that her shoes, while unglamorous, were in fact new and clean. But what happens when this is not the case?

Perhaps – in a form of domestic blindness – you simply haven’t noticed how worn your shoes are, or they are a beloved pair you can’t bear to part with. Or maybe you’re too busy to clean your footwear, or just simply too lazy. But far from being an irrelevant detail or negated by their practicality, shoes have an uncanny ability to make, or break an outfit, so take time to take them seriously …

It’s when shoes have become shoddy rather than showy that it’s time to reevaluate their usefulness. 

The shank on this shoe is broken, necessitating the complete removal of the heel to address the problem. A special magnetised machine will be required to remove the nail embedded in the heel first.

When to Cast Aside an Old Shoe

It’s when shoes have become shoddy rather than showy that it’s time to reevaluate their usefulness. Firstly, look through your shoe wardrobe and sort the wheat from the chaff. Determine whether the shoe really is just down, and not in fact out. Which pairs do you reach for all the time, and which are the shoes you simply don’t wear? The wheat are the great shoes that you wear all the time and are in good condition, and the amazing shoes that you loooove but don’t have occasion to wear often. The chaff includes the worn out, the uncomfortable, ugly, or simply passé.

Illustration from a Danish magazine of 1914; image from ‘Vintage Shoes’, by Caroline Cox (Carlton Books, 2008)

The Wheat

Annoyingly, the left shoe of this pair of Mary-Janes lost its heel tip mid-commute one morning. They will not be worn again until they are repaired – doing so would ruin the patent leather further. Original heel tips are often of lesser quality than those used by quality shoe repairers. Have problem heels attended to ASAP! Make sure those shoes you wear very often are kept in tip-top condition. Protect them against the weather, and clean them when they are dirty. Have them resoled or protective tips on toes or heels added sooner rather than later. If you have a favourite pair of shoes that are really past it, consider replacing them with a new pair that are, if not exactly the same, as close as possible in likeness. 

If you are a shoeaholic like me, you may have a lot of beautiful shoes that don’t get worn often for the simple fact that there are not enough days in the year, or the right occasion or weather to wear them. Keep as many of these as you like if you have the space for them.

The Chaff

Of the shoes you don’t wear at all, or very, very seldom, it is actually fairly easy to grade them.

The Worn

Start with the worn out. Be ruthless with truly disgusting specimens of footwear. Broken, stinky, or so worn out it is a waste of time and money to repair them – these shoes should be unceremoniously cast into the outer darkness.

However, before you do anything so drastic as trashing only a midly disreputable-looking pair, consider whether all they need is a little TLC to make them look good as new. It may be as simple as cleaning and polishing them up yourself, which costs little more than the price of some shoe polish, brush and cleaning cloth – any lint-free rag will do. Or if they require the services of a cobbler, you will need to factor in the cost x love, ie, are they worth spending money on a repair? Sometimes it’s more cost effective to replace them.

Keep in mind certain types of leather age well too – scratches and wear (when polished up) can enhance good quality hide and even bestow a favourite pair of shoes or boots with that well-loved and lived-in glow. On the other hand, patent leather that is badly scratched or torn right off is a bad look. Chuck it out.

Illustration of Perugia footwear from the ‘Gazette du Bon Ton’, 1924; image from ‘Vintage Shoes’, by Caroline Cox (Carlton Books, 2008)

The Uncomfortable

If the shoes in question are uncomfortable you must weigh up the pros and cons of shoe beauty vs crippling agony. Can you barely stand in them for half an hour at a time, far less run for a bus or tram in them? Do you look ridiculous hobbling along in heels too high, or plastered with a multitude of bandaids? (Don’t forget new shoes will need wearing in – try wearing them at home for a short time each day before you take them on an outing.)

Poorly-fitting shoes can be made more wearable through stretching (cobblers can do this, or you can purchase some shoe-stretching spray), or inserting an insole, or softening, for example. One trick I learned from a shoe repairer was to rub pure soap to soften leather that is hard. If the shoes are ugly and uncomfortable, well, need I say more?

Don’t donate shoes that rightly belong in the rubbish … Consider it a good deed for the community at large.

The Passé

Some of your shoes may simply be out of fashion. If they are still in excellent condition and high quality or designer, you might consider keeping them in storage against the day they suddenly segue to the rank of vintage collectable. (New incarnations of an old and familiar style will rarely be exactly the same as past versions.) Platforms of decades past that were once considered ridiculous are now collectors’ items. I confess I own more than a few pairs of shoes that are either impossible or ridiculous or both, but I am sure one day a distant relative of mine will clap her hands in joy when she inherits this stash.

Alternatively, if the questionable footwear are still in very good condition you could sell them on eBay, or less-than-perfect-but-still-wearable-shoes could be donated to a charity shop. Don’t donate shoes that rightly belong in the rubbish. If you refuse to inflict them on the world, why give the opportunity to do so to a stranger with lesser shoe values than yourself? Consider it a good deed for the community at large.

When was the last time you polished your shoes?

Maintenance

Your shoes will last longer if you take care of them properly, obviously. Try not to wear the same pair day-in and day-out – they will be better for having a day off and time to breathe. Of course, shoes that have both outer leather and inner leather linings are the most comfortable and least likely to smell. (Don’t get me started on PU – I’ve had a couple of misadventures in stinky shoes. Even cuteness had at $25 a pop will not make that revolting stench go away. Click here and here for a giggle.)

Protect

These shoes are permanently water-stained, and excessive attempts to clean them damaged the leather further.Use protective spray on shoes, especially against the chance of rain, even in summer. I ruined a beautiful pair of very expensive designer shoes (right) that I had splashed out on when I was caught out in an unexpected summer shower. Normally a bit of rain won’t ruin shoes, but these are made of supremely soft Italian glove leather, and the watermark can’t be removed. Lesson learned! 

Clean

Be careful with over-brushing muddied suede – I waited until the mud was dry, but even so, this left boot is sadly bruised. Like my spirit. Clean dirty shoes when they first become dirty. Don’t leave them encrusted with mud for days – a very slovenly look. Suede that has been spattered with mud should be left to dry before it is brushed off, and in most cases it will come off easily. Keep an eye on heels and tips – have them attended to before they are drastically worn out and the leather on the shoe is ruined beyond repair. When shopping, I also keep in mind that shoes with leather covered heels require a little more care in wearing, as once they’re ruined there is little a cobbler can do to restore them to their former glory. Cobblestoned streets are the worst hazard – avoid them if at all possible!

Not many of us are lucky enough to have the kind of shelving system Mr Big gave to Carrie …

Store

Store your footwear appropriately. Not many of us are lucky enough to have the kind of shelving system Mr Big gave to Carrie in the Sex & the City film, but boxes with some kind of vent will keep them dust-free while also helping shoes breathe. Don’t, for goodness sake, throw them in a jumble in the bottom of your wardrobe! They will become hopelessly scratched and dirty, and it doesn’t help you in the morning when you’re dressing.

All a good shoe wardrobe requires is an eye for style that properly balances quality with affordability (whether your budget is shoestring or stiletto-high), proper maintenance, and a streak of ruthlessness. Keep all this in mind and you will always put your best foot forward.

Check out this little gallery for some shoespiration.

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Come back in a week or two for the Eighth Commandment of Miss Moses: ‘Launder thy garments respectfully and they wilt serve thee long’. If you’ve just tuned in, or would like to refresh your memory, click here to review all the Fashion Commandments. 

Thou Shalt Shop With the Precision of a Military Campaigner

THE SIXTH FASHION COMMANDMENT

There is an art to good shopping. It does not involve going off half-cocked and buying any old rag out of desperation. It requires the strategic planning of a seasoned military campaigner. The lay of the land must be studied minutely; no stick or stone should be unturned; the enemy within must be found out and utterly routed. A strategy is formed, tactics formulated. Timing is of the essence. The fine art of military shopping heeds the danger of deploying precious funds when under the influence of intense emotion or acute tiredness. Just as one should not go grocery shopping when one is hungry, so should one not go swimsuit shopping the very day before a beach holiday.

Once, years ago, I was forced to buy a swimsuit at extreme short notice while on holiday in Sydney. It took a veritable whirlwind shopping tour and an hour to make my choice: a minimalist CK-style tankini in olive (olive!) by Seafolly. The boyfriend whined that an hour was a ridiculous length of time to spend on the choice of one garment, and I quickly disabused him of this ignorant notion. He was clearly inexperienced, for you and I recognise it for what it was: a true fashion miracle. (The choice of a despised colour was a minor error of judgment, excusable in this instance I believe in view of the ultimate shopping feat – only equalled in valour to finding a pair of jeans within an hour.)

Of course it’s possible to employ the services of an in-store stylist or personal shopper, but where would be the fun in that? Today we don’t have to go hunt and gather supplies for food in the dangerous wild, but that instinct is inborn and can be satisfied through the gathering of frills and furbelows to decorate ourselves, if not our nests. (Although we may have to fight off crazed bargain hunters on occasion.)

But how do we avoid costly errors and wasting time in desperate forays on shopping malls that only result in panic purchases and anxiety attacks?  

Shopping with the military precision requires research, patience, an objective eye, a good understanding of one’s style and figure, gut instinct, time, and the willingness to walk the extra mile to the other end of the mall again to compare garments just one more time.

Study the Lie of the Land

As you have now cleared your closet (see Commandment #5), you know what gaps there are in your wardrobe. However, before you make any purchase, some research is required. Read those fashion newsletters and blogs, flick through those magazines, scroll through the shopping apps, take a walk and scout what people are wearing on the streets, what is dressing the shop windows and is on the shop floor.

Research the trends for the coming season and determine what appeals to you and what will fit in with your look and your existing garments. This does require some patience and investment of time, but the results are far more rewarding than simply going out to the local mall for a quick-fix of disposable fashion. Remember, a bargain is never a bargain unless you actually need or want something and actually wear it.

Be objective about which of the current trends will suit you – it is easy to dismiss some if they don’t suit your style or persona, but more difficult to gauge whether certain shapes or styles will flatter you unless you know your figure well, and how to enhance it.

Being clever about choosing great separates … will end those despairing cries at dawn of, ‘I have nothing to wear!’

Formulate your strategy

Assess what you need for your wardrobe; dresses are super-easy, but it is separates that will really extend the possibilities of your wardrobe. But before you buy anything too unusual, be sure that you will actually have something to pair it with at home. Being clever about choosing great separates and a few choice accessories will end those despairing cries at dawn of, ‘I have nothing to wear!’ as you stand before your bulging closet in your undies.

When you do finally venture out into the shops, take a list (mental or written) but go with an open mind. It’s smart to be cautious and compare similar garments from different labels, or if something is particularly expensive to sit on it for a while to be really sure you want it on more than a whim (I call that fashion fermentation). But do be prepared to fall in love and when you do – listen to your heart.

Heed Your Instincts

On more than one occasion I have been more pragmatic and forever regretted it (a white scarf beautifully and intricately embroidered in red). On other occasions I have passionately fallen for something and promptly bought it on the spot – and never regretted it (the red Dorothy glitter Mary-Janes).

I particularly heed that inner voice when I have these moments shopping overseas, because when will I next be in Morocco, or Vietnam again? I remember saying that to a friend whenever we hesitated over something whilst shopping in Hong Kong – I still wear nearly all those things I loved back then, and that was eight or ten years ago. (And what wonderful memories souvenirs bring back.)

It is worth remembering that many chain stores will update their stock very quickly, so if you do not make you mind up just as fast, chances are that garment will be gone (or it may have made it to the sale section, which is a bonus and probably a divine sign that you should buy it immediately).

Do have your basics that you return to time and again – and for these buy good quality – but always keep an eye out for those unique items that make an outfit brilliant. Sometimes you come across these when you least expect it, when you are not even shopping for clothes. The red and white embroidered scarf I saw in a gallery shop; it was very expensive and I didn’t really need it, so I regretfully passed it by. Many years later, I still have never seen its like (and not for want of searching) and I wish I had bought it. I have only last week seen similar scarves in Zara and Australian department store David Jones, but neither of these – though cheaper – is as nice and I can’t bring myself to buy second-best.

Always be Prepared

It is even more dangerous when vintage shopping to pass amazing garments by, because you know full well that you never will see their like again. Not all vintage fairs or markets have changerooms, so it’s a good idea to keep a tape measure in your bag in case you are unable to try them on – obviously keep a note of your current measurements too.

Online shopping is fantastic for scoring bargains and labels unavailable in your hometown, especially if you buy from the other hemisphere at sale time. It’s particularly great for those of us living Downunder, since we are a season behind the rest of the world. But all the same rules as for brick-and-mortar stores still apply, ie, don’t impulse buy simply because something is cheap.

I know many people who won’t buy online because they are afraid a garment won’t fit – again, know your measurements, read the reviews of other shoppers, but if it’s still a disaster you can always return the offending item (remember to read the store’s policy on return items). You can always start with an inexpensive item such as a t-shirt or top, or something on sale, to gauge your size before you make a bigger purchase.

If you can learn to be a disciplined and savvy shopper – and not necessarily one with a bottomless bank account – you will end up with an enviable wardrobe that will never let you down.

Deployment Tips

• wear comfortable shoes, though if shopping for an evening dress for example, bring the shoes you intend wearing with it
• wear skin-toned underwear that will not show under most garments
• for serious shopping, shop alone – do not take a man with you unless he genuinely enjoys shopping for clothes and his opinion can be trusted
• ask stylish friends where they shop (recommended shopping districts if not actual labels), and make use of local shopping guides available in print form or as phone apps 
• subscribe to sale websites and newsletters and have notifications delivered straight to your inbox

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Come back in a week or so for the Seventh Commandment of Miss Moses: ‘Thou Shalt Throw Away Worn Out Shoes When They Art Beyond Redemption’. If you’ve just tuned in, or would like to refresh your memory, click here to review all the Fashion Commandments. 

Many thanks to the Melbourne Theatre Company wardrobe department for the loan of the soldier’s coat and bicorne.

If in Doubt, Thou Shalt Throw it Out

THE FIFTH FASHION COMMANDMENT

To keep, or not to keep – that is the question. Or perhaps, as it is in my case, the question is rather: how much closet space do I have?

I have reached a point where mine is bursting at the seams. I have long ago passed the point where it became necessary to divide my wardrobe into summer and winter, and store the out-of-season garments in my storage room in the garage. Now I have come to the inescapable conclusion that I must actually throw things out.

What a frightening prospect! The last time I did a major overhaul of my wardrobe was when I switched from bohemian eccentricity to extreme minimalism, and I got rid of virtually every single vintage garment I owned.

The memory still makes me wince slightly, although there are really only a few items that I truly regret: the watermelon 20s-style velvet coat with the large, ruched collar; the swingy 40s black lace dress, and the 40s black crepe tie-back short sleeved tailored top; the darling little red linen 60s jacket trimmed in black and white polka-dotted ruffles; the black satin diamanté buckled Ferragamo square-toed 60s heels; the 70s Morticia black dress trimmed in pleated organza ruffles … WHAT WAS I THINKING? If I could shake myself, I would. Please excuse me while I shed a few bitter tears. (Interestingly, there is a lot of black in that list.)

Now, although I know I need to thin the ranks, I’m apprehensive. What if I throw out the wrong thing?

… ‘if in doubt, throw it out’ is a long-held motto that has many times clinched anxious sartorial nail biting.

Sometimes it is glaringly obvious when a garment has passed its use-by date and it is easy to discard it. Other times I am not quite sure, but if the item is really rather ordinary and easily replaced with a newer, younger model, I consult my inner fashionista. If there is indecision, then I will be ruthless: ‘if in doubt, throw it out’ is a long-held motto that has many times clinched this anxious sartorial nail biting. It is my cardinal rule that answers when all else fails.

I am probably not alone in my concern on discarding something I might want again in the future – lovers of vintage will especially agree. So often it seems that no sooner I toss, lo and behold a week later I suddenly find myself wishing I still had the thing. It’s very annoying.

So, if you are in the same boat, here is my little self-help guide. Hold my hand, take a deep breath, and we’ll do this together. Just remember one thing: you will need to be ruthless.

Where to start

You will need to try things on, so make sure you’re wearing the right underwear, you have good light, and access to a full-length mirror.

When you are deciding on a particular garment, do take the time to try it on with something it matches reasonably well so that you can make a fair judgment.

If you need someone else’s opinion, enlist a good friend whose fashion sense is impeccable to spend the day with you. (Ply them with wine and other tempting snacks to keep them good-humoured and operating at peak efficiency.)

Put on some fun music (although not so fun that you get distracted with dancing to it).

When to DISCARD

• If it is unflattering, throw it out
• If it is damaged and irreparable, throw it out
• If it does not fit, and is not likely to ever again, and cannot be altered, throw it out
• If it is poorly constructed or cheap and nasty, and does nothing for you, throw it out
• If the colour looks horrible on you, throw it out
• If it is ugly, throw it out (do I need to reiterate this after the last commandment?)
• If you never wear it, or just don’t need it, throw it out
• If it just doesn’t fit in with your style anymore, throw it out
• If it makes you look completely the wrong age (like a child or a nanna), throw it out
• If you own a half-dozen of them, throw it out – keep only the best

If you passionately love it, KEEP IT

When to KEEP

• If you wear it all the time, and it is brilliantly useful, KEEP IT
• If it is practical and you go back to it time and again, KEEP IT
• If you passionately love it, KEEP IT
• If it suits you, it makes you feel wonderful and look stunning, and you will probably wear it occasionally, KEEP IT

If you’re STILL NOT SURE

• If it is something you are fairly certain you will rarely wear, but it is truly unique, well-made from high-quality materials, or collectible, (eg, designer or vintage) and you have space for it, KEEP IT
• If it is a specialist item such as sports gear that would be expensive to replace, is in good condition and emits no offensive odour, KEEP IT
• If it is an item you just don’t think you can part with just yet, store it for a while and if in six months’ time you haven’t missed it, (or a season passes and you haven’t worn it), throw it out

AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS

If none of the above seem to apply and something is still niggling at you, ask yourself, “Am I in doubt?” Obviously, if you have reached this point, YOU ARE. So exercise some self-discipline and THROW IT OUT. You will find it very liberating, I promise.

Now that you have rid yourself of all that bad fashion feng shui, you are probably feeling a virtuous glow. Not only that, you are also the proud possessor of a tidy wardrobe, and, even more importantly, a wardrobe with space in it. And we all know what that state of delightful affairs indicates: time to go shopping!

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But before you step one foot in any dangerously tempting shopping strip, you will need to arm yourself with the Sixth Commandment of Miss Moses: ‘Thou Shalt Shop With the Precision of a Military Campaigner.’ Come back in a week or so for the next installment.

If you’ve just tuned in, or would like to refresh your memory, click here to review all the Fashion Commandments. 

Thou Shalt Not Own Any Ugly or Dowdy Clothing

THE FOURTH FASHION COMMANDMENT

I purchased these daggy clothes from a charity store especially for this shoot (except for the vintage silk crocheted vest) – I was exceptionally pleased to find those supremely sensible sandals! Ugliness, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. It is entirely subjective: one woman’s sartorial treasure is another’s fash trash. But with the irony prevalent today and the endemic fondness for kitsch, you may be forgiven for wondering if ‘ugly’ exists any more. We are not even safe from the decade that style forgot: the 1980s – designers have plundered that era and wrung every hideous nuance out of it, regurgitating it for the dubious pleasure of the Teensies generation.

What are ugly clothes anyway?

Before I wander any further into a denunciation on the taste of modern arbiters of style, let me define exactly what I mean by the Fourth Commandment.

As already stated, notions of ugliness and dowdiness – or to use an antipodean colloquialism, dagginess – are relatively subjective. In regard to personal fashion choices, this refers to garments that make you feel wholly unattractive, as opposed to someone else’s opinion of what is chic.

One of the most famously chic women in history: Wallis Simpson

Why should chic matter?

But why is this important? It is not about vanity or materialism, but rather self-esteem. Self-confidence makes the difference in every walk of life. No one should fade into the background or be otherwise overlooked because of what they wear – because every human being has value. But realistically, people will take you at face value, at least at first. The good news is that you can exercise some control over that by the worth you place on yourself. It is in your hands to be sure that first impression is a good, and lasting one.

Edith Head, the famous Hollywood costume designer said, ‘You can have whatever you want if you dress for it.’ Well, it might take a little more than clothes, but they will give you a running start.

Read on to find out just when ugly happens to good people, what are the Seven Ugly Sins, and how to avoid committing them …

The impeccable Katherine HepburnThe gamine and unpretentious Audrey Hepburn

When does ugly happen?

Who’s had the experience of walking down a street and, catching sight of some pitiable female reflected in a window, thought, ‘My goodness, what is that poor, daggy woman wearing?’ – only to realise on a gasp of horror that it is yourself? That is a personal crash with ugly, and we have all been through it at one time or other in our lives. It is a momentary lapse of the subjective into the objective, and we should all learn from that experience and use it to make our wardrobes smarter. (How ironic that it is this reflection of our unwary selves – this inadvertent glimpse of ‘another’ – that makes us suddenly aware of how others truly see us, and just how much we judge others.)

Often the cause of the offence is badly fitting clothes, garments that don’t flatter one’s figure, or an outfit that is particularly dull and depressing. Sometimes it is a catastrophically Bad Hair Day that prompts that dismay. I believe on a dull winter’s day it is particularly important to wear something cheerful, but, incomprehensibly, it is the season when many seem to wear nothing but black, grey and brown. They become stuck in a fashion rut, which can easily degrade into dagginess.

Don’t own any daggy clothing, and you will never feel daggy.

Once a friend, Ermintrude* (*names have been changed to protect the innocent) exclaimed on an outing with me, ‘I feel so daggy next to you!’ My pragmatic response was this: ‘Don’t own any daggy clothing, and you will never feel daggy.’ Simple as that.

While researching this story, another friend, Griselda*, said to me, ‘sometimes it’s not that individual items of clothing are daggy, it’s how they are combined. Some people just don’t know how to style themselves,’ she finished sadly, shaking her head. This is true, but there are some potholes in the road to stylishness that are easy to avoid and will give you a head start.

Honestly, wouldn’t you rather wear cute leather brogues laced with vintage silk ribbon than sensible (and boring) flats? Did I mention they squeaked too? Ugh.

THE SEVEN UGLY SINS 

1. Wearing clothes that don’t fit
2. Not paying attention to proportion
3. Buying poor quality garments
4. Not dressing appropriately for the occasion
5. Wearing colours that don’t flatter your complexion
6. Taking fashion too seriously
7. Keeping clothes past their wear-by date

Fit

Wear clothes that actually fit your body. Too-large or baggy clothing is probably the leading cause of dowdiness, especially when worn tandem in a loose shirt and skirt combination. Too-small clothes will make you simply uncomfortable. Neither of these looks will flatter your figure nor do anything to boost your confidence.

Proportion

If you wear a loose and flowing top, pair a slim fitting skirt or trousers with it, and vice versa. Use clothing to emphasise the good points of your figure rather than accentuating the bad. Interesting details and strong colours will draw the eye – take advantage of that.

For example, an always-risky fashion choice is a baggy top on a large bust. It drops straight down and obscures your figure – chances are some foolish person will ask you if you are pregnant. (This happened to a friend of mine – her bus driver asked her when her baby was due!) This style of top is akin to a muu-muu, which can rarely claim any pretensions to glamour.

Glamour in 1975: Lauren Hutton at the OscarsSummertime chic: Milla JovovichCate Blanchett rarely puts a foot wrong, on or off the red carpet

Quality

Cheap is not chic, and ultimately, it will not make you cheerful either. Good quality clothing made from natural fibres that is cut well is always going to give you an advantage in the style stakes. It also holds its shape and colour better through numerous laundering. There is nothing sadder than badly faded and holey leisurewear, especially cheap garments. Do yourself a favour and throw them out! And pay attention to the garment care label – your clothes will last longer if you launder them properly.  

People inarguably and inevitably do judge by appearances, so put your best shoe forward …

Occasion

Wear garments to suit the occasion. I am a very firm believer that tracksuits and runners (and all types of exercise gear) belong on the running track, or the gym. That is all. An oft-heard adage is that it’s better to be overdressed than underdressed, and I agree. People inarguably and inevitably do judge by appearances, so put your best shoe forward – you never know whom you might meet on your way to buying a carton of milk.

Colour

If you find your outfits look dull, it’s probably time to introduce some colour. Always make sure the colour nearest your face suits you and brightens your complexion. Black is so popular because it’s slimming and easy, but it doesn’t suit everyone. If it makes you look sallow, try adding a scarf in a hue that suits you, or don’t wear it on top at all.

I have always loved Gwyneth Paltrow’s all-American, Calvin Klein-fuelled minimalist chicNot one to play it safe, Diane Kruger always looks gorgeous and elegant

Fun

Have some fun with fashion – it doesn’t all have to be super-serious and office-ready, or completely practical. Even purely corporate looks benefit from interesting details, if only with the addition of a high-fashion scarf or interesting buttons on your shirt. This is where accessories come into their own.

Age

Shabby is NOT chic (who coined that vile appellation?). Take care of your clothes. Beyond simply cleaning them, do mend tears, repair hems and sew buttons back on before you wear them again. A darned hole is infinitely preferable to a hole. I must confess I have been guilty of wearing holey knits because I abhor darning, and I can testify that it does attract unfavourable attention.

… consider this revolutionary alternative: clothes that are attractive and comfortable.

Don’t keep tired worn-out clothes that are past their use-by date merely because they feel comfortable. When old clothes have stretched out of shape from use and many washings, it’s time to bin them. Be ruthless about this. There are only so many daggy old tracksuit pants that you need to keep for when you paint the house. Instead, consider this revolutionary alternative: clothes that are attractive and comfortable.

Please remember, if the garments in question are in such a sorry state then don’t donate them to a charity store – poor people don’t need to look worse, and hipsters and vintage mavens won’t want to buy them. Even op shops have standards.

Now that we’ve identified the hallmarks of dowdy, it’s time to take positive action. Next time you’re standing in front of your closet and wondering what on earth you should wear: Seize the dress! And the day – because you’re worth it. 

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Come back next week for the Fifth Fashion Commandment, ‘When in doubt, thou must throw it out’. If you’ve just tuned in, or would like to refresh your memory, click here to review all the Fashion Commandments. 

Thou Shalt Have Fun With Accessories

THE THIRD FASHION COMMANDMENT

I am not a basics kinda girl. I have said it before, and I’ll say it again: I believe in accessories. I believe in the power of a single awesome accessory; maybe even two. But even just one stunning accessory has the power to make an ordinary outfit extraordinary.

Whether your style is minimalist or maximalist, there are some accessories you will need if only out of sheer necessity. We all need shoes certainly, and a bag of some sort is useful, unless you like to carry everything in your hands. Once, I saw a young girl actually doing this. She dropped her credit card in the middle of a pedestrian crossing, and then nearly had an accident while retrieving it. This is not a good look.

A well-chosen accessory, whatever it’s function, can lift the spirit. 

Accessories can change your look from night to day, and they can make or break an outfit. They express your personality. They can be practical or utterly frivolous and in both be cases utterly necessary – one fills a need, the other feeds the soul. A well-chosen item, whatever it’s function, can lift the spirit. And make a short girl tall too.

Gone are the days when your shoes, bag and gloves had to match however. This is a look that is so far past passé it’s old fashioned. But when this simple and easy-to-follow rule is thrown out, how does one choose the perfect accessories to complement an outfit? 

There are quite a few things to ponder: size, occasion, season, age appropriateness, colour, and quantity as well as quality. Read on to find out more!

Have some real fun with accessories by making visual puns – adding magpie earrings rather than cats is so much more interesting! And how fabulous is that bag? A little pop of red really stands out against all the white and black and denim ‘neutral’. Click through to Polovore for shopping details for this outfit. Miaow.

Size Matters

Just as one chooses clothing to suit one’s figure, so should accessories be carefully considered. Accessories should balance one another; your shape, and complement your clothes too.

Jewellery A longer necklace will flatter shorter necks, as well as fill necklines and draw the eye. On the other hand, if your choker is actually choking you, then it’s not the right look. Large hoops or chandelier earrings work beautifully with short hair, or updos. 

Other accessories An enormous tote will overwhelm a petite figure, while a tiny clutch will look equally out of proportion on a generous figure. If you like to wear gloves, here’s a simple rule to follow: the shorter the sleeve, the longer the glove. A belt at the waist flatters the long-waisted, heels lengthen anyone’s legs (a desirable trait for most). A skinny belt may not be the best choice for a heavier figure – select something wider. And so on.

All neutral garments are a great canvas for some bright accessories, though I’ve deliberately kept the cuff bracelet a neutral tan to keep the number of colours down. Click through to Polovore for shopping details for this outfit. Pop!

What’s the Occasion?

Some accessories are clearly meant for evenings and partying hard, others are more hard-wearing for the daily commute to the office. Don’t dress for the office as though you’re going nightclubbing obviously, or wear beach clothes in the city – you won’t be taken seriously. This is not a hard and fast rule however, and will depend upon the kind of workplace you have, whether it is more relaxed and creative, or strictly business.

’Tis the Season

The season will of course affect your choices. A winter wardrobe offers a greater variety (or a greater need) of options and fun accessories to play with. It is rarely an elegant look however to mix seasons: for example, wearing flip-flops through the rain and sleet, or sweltering under a heavy scarf mid-summer. There are a number of weather-ready items that we all use that don’t need to be purely practical. Why carry a plain black umbrella when you could be twirling one in hot pink and bedecked with frills besides?

Age Appropriateness

Accessories should be age appropriate too, and by this I mean not aging, as well as not bestowing that unfortunate mutton-dressed-as-lamb look. Of course, whatever your age, if you want to look 15 years older, wear a string of pearls and a twin set with your box pleat skirt and low courts! The key to looking chic is in the way you combine your accessories: mixing high and low will achieve a fresh and spontaneous kind of elegance that is far superior to a tired and safe, conservative version of style. For instance, that twin set and pearls might work in any shade but pastel, or given some attitude worn with jeans and fierce heels, or a leather skirt.

… slightly off-kilter is more interesting and modern than matchy-matchy.

A mix of slightly different shades of coral pink and blush creates a warm palette without being boring. A hair clip in a strong red rather than pink or cream makes this outfit less sweet. Click through to Polyvore for shopping details for this outfit.

Quality Counts

Unique accessories can be found at all price points if one hunts around, and vintage is always a fantastic resource for something truly unique. Often the vintage piece is as beautifully made and designed as a modern designer item, at a fraction of the cost. It’s true however that the really amazing pieces are at the higher end of the scale, especially when it comes to quality of design and manufacture. Always buy the best you can afford, especially those items that are either classic (ie, will never go out of style) or you foresee will be used frequently. Spend less on the very fun and trendy items.

Just Add Colour

If your outfit is predominantly made up of neutrals, take the opportunity to add a pop or two of colour in your accessories. Do make sure if the accessory is near your face that it flatters your complexion. A general rule of thumb would be no more than two or three colours and textures, at least so one avoids that awful alternating colour scheme, ie, blue hat, red scarf, blue shirt, red pants, blue shoes etc. A better alternative might be a blue shirt and red pants worn with black ballet flats and a camel beret, a silver necklace and black bag; neutral shades mixed with colour do not look so OTT. 

It is a balancing act, and slightly off-kilter is more interesting and modern than matchy-matchy. The more detailed or colourful your garments are though, the simpler your accessories should be, and vice versa.

The Coco Principle

As well as going overboard with too many colours, do be careful about going overboard with too many accoutrements. If your outfit is very bold or colourful with lots of detail or trim, then you probably won’t need any fancy accessories at all. In that case, stick to a very plain shoe and bag, and consider whether you need to wear jewellery at all. If you outfit is minimalist or neutral coloured, then go all out with a knock-’em-dead necklace, or killer heels.  

Occasionally a maximalist look will work, but you need to be very confident you’ve nailed it, or risk looking like a clown or a Christmas tree. Coco Chanel advised us to take a look in the mirror before we walked out the door, and take one thing off – sometimes we need to take off more than one! Most days I prefer to wear less – far less than even Coco suggested. It’s best to go with your instinct. If you feel you look a little silly, chances are you do. And even if you don’t, your unease will be visible to everyone. A bold outfit requires equal confidence to carry it off.

I distinctly remember when I was about 18 years old and studying art, I started wearing lots of ethnic style jewellery, and I wasn’t shy to pile it on. One day, while working at a casual job in a biscuit factory (art materials cost a lot), I looked down at my hand at the paua shell inlaid bangle, the three or four rings, and had an ephiphany. I was wearing far too much jewellery on one hand, I realised with mortification. Sheepishly I slid most of them off and stuffed them into my uniform pocket. Strange time and place to have an epiphany I know, but it’s a true story.

Ever since then I’ve erred on the side of minimalism: no more than one ring per hand (sometimes only one ring altogether), or two slim rings stacked on one finger, and never a bangle and watch on one wrist. On the rare occasion I might wear a stack of wooden bangles, 1920s style à la Nancy Cunard. Likewise, a silk scarf knotted around the neck makes a necklace superfluous, and a headband under a hat is too much. You don’t want to ruin the impact of your fabulous accessory by wearing too many – you won’t be able to see the ring for the bling, as it were. 

Accessories should certainly fit in with your environment and suit your personality, but they also provide an excellent and low-commitment opportunity to play with fashion and bring a little joy into life. Just get the balance right, walking that fine line between practicality and pleasure. Don’t be afraid to experiment either, especially in the safety of your own home before you venture out the door. And if you do get it wrong a time or two, there’s no harm done – it’s not brain surgery after all. Accessories are easy to remove and slip into your bag and pretend it never happened. Life’s too short to dress in a humdrum fashion – don’t miss out on all the fun!

~

Come back next week for the Fourth Fashion Commandment. If you’ve just tuned in, or would like to refresh your memory, click here to review all the Fashion Commandments.