Spring Greens

Inspired by my story on Kelly green, I hunted out this favourite old fashion editorial tucked away in one of my tearsheet books. It’s vintage Australian Vogue, September 1989, and the photographer, Martyn Thompson, is also an old favourite.

The fashion editor here advocates tossing all shades of green together like a garden salad: parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme and pale honeydew. Khaki, chartreuse, watercress, lime and lemon, olive and moss – it’s a veritable vegetable patch! I don’t particularly like most of the clothes – although the sequinned dress by old label Peter Morrissey & Leona Edmiston is cute.

I do love the jungle atmosphere however. I’ve always been attracted to conservatories and hothouses – who remembers that old movie, Greencard? I could totally understand Andie McDowell’s desperate desire to have the house with that beautiful conservatory attached. That luscious heat makes one feel so languorous. Probably that’s why I keep hankering to holiday in the tropics. At least spring is almost here – the perfect time to wear green.

Air Supply

Although I am currently going through a Ballet Russes phase (colour, print, texture, pattern, layers, sequins, stripes, polka dots – PILE IT ON!), I still very much admire the minimalist look as captured in this fashion editorial from Australian Vogue.*

The shapes are simple, but exaggerated; the colours muted and mostly monochromatic, but a great variety of textural combinations, or the contrast of sheer with opaque fabrics give these looks such richness. I don’t even mind that three of these outfits are entirely black!

The velvet Gucci trousers are so lush, especially contrasted with the sheer blouse – its poet sleeves are so graceful too. The origami cut of Antonio Berardi’s skirt is also beautiful, and Calvin Klein’s panelled wool dress is a wonder of subtlety. And I must mention the tassels in the Ferragamo shoes – how sensuous would it be to have those gently swinging at your ankles! The plaited hair is so pretty and bohemian too.

I just wish I had the bank balance and the wardrobe space to accommodate these elegant creations in my life. Sigh.

* Photographs by Nicole Bentley, Vogue Australia, August 2012. It’s not stated, but I suspect this editorial first appeared in an international edition. I didn’t like all the looks in the story either, but that was partly to do with the awkward, slump-shouldered poses of the models (why do they do that?!).

The Ugliest Hat in the World

Vogue Australia, August 2012I put it to you: is this the ugliest hat ever designed in the history of millinery?

Very well, I admit I have not seen every hat in creation, but this must be a strong contender to take the title. The vertical stripes, the lurid colour scheme, the wisps of hair trailing down the model’s face … it’s the Cheshire Cat in human form. Marc Jacobs what were you thinking?

More of Marc’s mad millineryThis is nothing graceful or elegant about this hat. The best that could be said about it is that it is humorous. But would you really want to run the gauntlet and wear this down the street? I suspect few would dare.

These gargantuan furry hats are an interesting contrast with the hats Jacobs turned out for Louis Vuitton. Also of exaggerated shape, taking their inspiration from the Edwardian era, they nevertheless create a far more elegant silhouette, especially in conjunction with the garments.

Louis Vuitton, A/W 2012Louis Vuitton, A/W 2012Louis Vuitton, A/W 2012

Louis Vuitton A/W 2012; click through to see more images
A cartoon satirising excessive use of feathers in hats at the turn of the twentieth century; from Hats, McDowellThe last time hats transmogrified into enormous caricatures, was back then at the turn of the century. High society had gone utterly mad for feathers, prompting the slaughter of exotic birds on a global scale until there was a public outcry and Queen Alexandra herself had to step in: By that time, feathered hats had run so completely out of control that tail feathers – or even a wing – were no longer enough. Fashionable Edwardian ladies frequently demanded the whole bird, stuffed and mounted, as the crowning glory of their hats. (Colin McDowell, Hats – Status, Style and Glamour, Thames & Hudson, 1992.)

Sadly, speaking as a hat-lover, I am not sure if Marc Jacobs is really serving the millinery industry and bringing hats back into fashion with these monstrosities. 

‘Chapeau de Chantecler’, caricature, 1910; from Hats, McDowell

Kit & Kip

One of my favourite photographers, Raymond Meier, specialises in photographing fashion accessories. And since I also love the latter, when I was flicking through an old magazine today, this editorial caught my eye. Specifically, the woven tan leather boots by Gucci (above) made me ooh and ahh. (The price made me gasp and wince too.)

It’s a very cute concept for a story on travel kit, and it’s full of delicious eye candy too, isn’t it? The pages are from British Vogue, either 2010 or 2011. (I’ve already thrown the magazine out after dissecting it. I do wish Vogue would include the issue number in their folios, which would make archiving that much easier). Scroll down for more – and try not to drool on your keyboard while doing so.

Hang Up the Blues

Life’s too short to stand against the wall and blend in! It’s more fun when you’re eccentric and take a few fashion risks. Melbourne’s streets are so dreary in winter: everyone – almost everyone – is wearing black, grey, navy and forever the blue jean. It’s a tide of boringness. I say: swim against the tide!

Hang up the blues and greys, spring out the colour all at once. Wear that bright colour that scares you the most. Wear prints and mix ’em up. Break every single fashion rule you ever heard of: red and pink together; green and blue will ever be seen. Dress like it’s summer every day! (Erm, within reason – don’t get pneumonia now. Blue skin is not in.)

You know that old adage:

Dance like there’s nobody watching,
Love like you’ll never be hurt,
Sing like there’s nobody listening,
Live like it’s heaven on earth …
And dress like the fashion police have resigned their commission.

I made that last one up. But do it anyway, and do it elegantly.

PS You know how Englishwomen have that reputation for eccentricity? Well, take a gander at this article I ripped out from a British magazine years ago (sorry, I am not sure which). Click on the pictures to make them big: