No Sparkle During the Day

Vintage 1980s sequinned silk top I read somewhere that a lady should never wear sparkle during the day. Pffft, I thought.

Then I found in Ines de la Fressange’s book Parisian Chic the declaration that a sequinned dress was a siren of the fashion world that should be avoided at all costs. That was the stupidest thing I ever read.

In 1957, Alison Adburghan, a retail historian and journalist said, ‘The ugly can be elegant; the vulgar never. And vulgarity nearly always begins with sequins. When sequins fall into the wrong hands, all appears to be lost and there is no saying what may happen.’ [A to Z of Style, by Amy de la Haye] Now, this was said in 1957. I contend that there are much more vulgar crimes against style today than the mere wearing of sequins in daylit hours.

It’s just when you look like a Christmas tree from head to toe that we venture into vulgar territory. 

As long as said sequinned item isn’t an overtly evening garment (such as an evening gown), one can easily work sequins into the daytime wardrobe. If you’re feeling nervous about attracting too much attention, try an accessory such as a scarf, or a bit of sequinned trim on the sleeves of a top, for instance. Away from the office it’s even easier – don a sequinned top with jeans, or other plain basic item. A delicate chiffon or knit top with a bit of sequin trim would look fantastic with a pair of trousers made from tweed or plain woven suiting – a classic case of contrasting the feminine and masculine, the whimsical with the practical, the yin and yang.

A judicious sprinkle of glitter is fun. It’s just when you look like a Christmas tree from head to toe that we venture into vulgar territory. 

Here are some fun ideas. 

Sheer’s a Lady

One of my favourite fabrics is silk chiffon – I am unfailingly drawn to it when I see it hanging from a rack. It has such a beautiful texture and drape, and flutters so prettily in the wind. And of course it allows the skin to gleam through alluringly. Sheer can be sweet, or it can be sexy, but how does a Lady do sheer? Here is a crash course in pictures.

Sheer can be sweet, or it can be sexy, but how does a Lady do sheer?

The secret is undergarments with the appropriate amount of coverage, naturally, and judicious layering. One can add layer upon layer of pretty nothings, a bit like a layer cake … or pass the parcel, which can be particularly entertaining when undressing for someone else. Dance of the Seven Veils anyone?

Now, we are long past the days of Carrie and her visible bras. It’s not only passé, but it’s too obvious and tacky. Especially don’t try it at the office. In fact, depending on how conservative your office is, with the correct amount of coverage beneath a sheer shirt, for example, you can even carry it off there. A fitted camisole is good so as not to ruin the line and throw off the illusory effect of the sheer top, and it’s best to match the camisole to the overall tone of the shirt. Skin tone under light hues or patterned fabric, or another matching colour that complements the pattern, and black under black or other dark colours.

I adored the fabric of this cute little star-printed black chiffon tiered dress, but the tiny slip provided with it was appalling. It is far too short and looks utterly ridiculous under such a long dress. The vintage slip with its longer length looks much more the thing. It could even be a trifle longer.

By the way, both blouse and dress looked far more intriguing with buttons done up all the way – I’m already revealing quite a bit of flesh so leaving the buttons undone as I might with their opaque counterparts just looks too much. Also, the delicate nature of the chiffon made the collars flop in an unattractive way. I’d answer done up or down on a case by case basis though.

Click through to Fashionising for their comprehensive report on sheer for Spring 2013, and their pretty (and pretty daring) picks from the runway. 

Instructions For the Judicious Use of the Handkerchief

Once upon a time there were so many fashion rules, but like gloves, and hats – sigh – they have been tossed aside for the most part. For instance, the art of wielding a handkerchief has been largely lost, alas. But I say, don’t cast that handkerchief aside like an old tissue! It is a considerable weapon of mass flirtation in the right woman’s hands.

You’ve all heard of that old cliché of the woman who sends her hanky fluttering to the floor, and has men racing from all directions to catch it before it should be sullied in the dust at her feet? I remember some amusing comics of Veronica having both Archie and Reggie at her feet in just such a fashion. But there is a right way and a wrong way to attempt this technique.

Observe: it doesn’t do to appear too arrogant – even the Princess Bride Buttercup learned eventually to mind her manners. Just imagine if it didn’t work: you’d be left with egg on your face. And then you’d really need the hanky, but it’d be all dirty by then. One must always think ahead.

This is better. Subtlety and nonchalance is key. “Oh did I drop my hanky? I didn’t notice. Thank you kind sir for retrieving it for me. Would I like you to treat me to a drink in yonder bar? Why, that would be lovely!” Heap on the flattery. Men lap that stuff up.

Here is what Anne Fogarty, a New York fashion designer said in 1959:

Handkerchiefs have always been a leading feminine weapon, a widely accepted cliché for attracting attention by fluttering or dropping to the floor … tissues and hankies have a separate function. Tissues for utility; hankies for coquetry.

The kind of hanky you choose says a lot about you too. A spotless little white lace handkerchief must meet with universal approval, while a colourfully printed hanky gives quite a different message. A source from 1894, Enquire Within Upon Everything declares:

There is considerable art in using this accessory of dress and comfort. Avoid extreme patterns, styles and colours. Never be without a handkerchief. Hold it freely in the hand, and do not roll it into a ball. Hold it by the centre, and let the corners form a fanlike expansion. Avoid using it too much. With some persons the habit becomes troublesome and unpleasant.

Tears of course are a world-renowned feminine weapon too, but they must be employed judiciously. If you have not yet done so, consider studying the most effective method of crying. Crocodile tears will not achieve your object. This next illustration depicts incorrect usage of a handkerchief. The effect is comical.

It is far better to adopt a suitably woebegone expression while delicately dabbing at the corners of one’s eyes (with handkerchief fanned attractively). Tips: widen eyes slightly; allow lower lip to tremble; catch breath on a little sob. A gentle sniff or two may be endearing and elicit sympathy from the gruffest stalwart. If you can manage a sparkling tear on the end of your eyelashes, even better. Thus the Delicate Flower catches her man and has her way with him!

Margaret Story, a fashion and etiquette writer stated in 1924: Once in a while we see a little lady with ‘a saucy twinkle in her eye’ from whose tailored suit pocket peeps a dainty little lace handkerchief. It is irresistible because we know she ‘knows better’. This, I confess, has me perplexed. Was this generally considered too manly, or too slovenly in 1924? It is always best to avoid any appearance of vulgarity, so I shall leave this to your discretion.

Next time on the SNAP Flirtation channel: correct techniques for little fingers and twisting men thereon. Stay tuned!

Quotations from A to Z of Style by Amy de la Haye (V&A Publishing, 2011)

You Can Leave Your Hat On

The Vintage Hat Series: Victorian miniature velvet top hat, sequin trimmed

The top hat, also known as a beaver hat, high hat, silk hat, cylinder hat, chimney pot hat or stove pipe hat, and sometimes simply as a ‘topper’, is predominantly a man’s hat. It first appeared atop men’s heads around the end of the eighteenth century and continued to be worn until the middle of the twentieth. Today it is worn chiefly by magicians, bridegrooms, and doormen.

But way back in the nineteenth century, in Victorian times, a London milliner pooh-poohed this blatant sexism and created this saucy little miniature topper. Decorated with sequin trim, it’s patently an evening hat and is best worn on a rakish tilt. It must have been rather racy back then, perhaps something only an actress or demimondaine might have worn.

A Victorian illustration of hat-tippingWhile tipped hats look becoming on a woman, back then ladies generally didn’t tip their hats to passers-by. This gesture of respect belonged almost exclusively to the male domain, and was a non-verbal greeting between friends or acquaintances, made during encounters on the sidewalk, or at social functions, or as a respectful acknowledgement when meeting a lady. One possible explanation of why women did not tip their hats could be that their hats, being far more elaborate, were often anchored firmly to their hairdos with hatpins.

The style of hat-tip could also indicate differences in social class: the subordinate was obliged to make a more elaborate gesture, such as entirely removing his hat while the superior merely touched his – assuming an appropriate lordly and lofty manner.

The origins of hat tipping are thought to be the same as the military salute and hark back to medieval times when knights wore visors. They would raise them to show friendliness. (Unfriendly ones raised their lances.)

Today’s version of the hat tip is the nod, and is restricted only to those who have a head on top. 

Read more about men’s hat etiquette here. 

Fashion Notes

I purchased this Victorian hat online from the UK. I haven’t been able to find any references to indicate how common this kind of hat was in that era. However, women then certainly wore full-size top hats either when horseback riding, in vaudeville, or as a fashion statement. 

Marlene Dietrich wears a top hat in the film Morocco, 1930

I am Desirous of Your Acquaintance

Carrying the open fan in the left hand; or, holding fan in front of face: ‘I am desirous of your acquaintance’.He waits breathlessly in the garden darkness, lurking under the jacaranda tree … will his sweet ladylove find a way to foil her dastardly husband and sneak out of the house to keep their tryst? Or will he go home, disconsolate? He must await some signal from her; surely it will come soon, for she knows what agonies beat in his breast …

Ah yes, once upon a time, in a more romantic age before mobile phones, clandestine lovers communicated via another method in … THE SECRET LANGUAGE OF THE FAN!

Slowly fanning oneself; could also mean (when fanning with specifically the left hand), ‘Don’t flirt with that woman’ – in this instance I guess the gentleman would use the lady’s expression as a guide!Fans have been used as far back as the days of ancient Greece and Rome, unsurprisingly, as a method of keeping one’s cool. In the 2nd century B.C. China, specific fans were associated with status and gender, though the famous dancing fan was not developed until the 7th century. There were even iron fans used as weapons, bringing new meaning to the cruelty of lovers.

But perhaps the heydey of the fan was in eighteenth century Europe, especially in the ballroom. It was an essential accessory, and just as important as knowing the ABCs of love was knowing how to wield it elegantly. As was said of Queen Charlotte, wife to King George III, even the plainest woman could become attractive if she used her fan graciously. Young ladies, therefore, were instructed on the proper way to handle their fan.

… even the plainest woman could become attractive if she used her fan graciously.

Rigid or folding, fans have been constructed from many materials: bone, ivory, tortoiseshell, painted silk or paper, chicken skin (an unattractive way of describing a fine kid), and were decorated with gold or silver leaf, feathers or even jewels. Louis XVI gave Marie Antoinette a diamond-encrusted fan for a wedding present. Queen Elizabeth I carried a folding fan dancing with pompoms (I like the sound of that!).

Fans in my collection: (clockwise from top) vintage wooden fan threaded with navy ribbon; Spanish souvenir; vintage painted paper fan, a souvenir from Hong Kong (the reverse side is painted with calligraphic characters); Vietnamese souvenir.Holding the open fan over the left earBack to my breathless Romeo … best put him out of his misery. He will instantly know, if the lady in question briefly appears on the balcony fanning herself slowly, before returning inside and shutting the door, she cannot go out to meet him. If, on the other hand, she fans herself quickly and excitedly, and leaves the door open, he will know she will come out soon.

It was quite a complex language, and a lady (and the gentleman of course) had to remember the difference between left and right – it might mean the difference between disaster and bliss.

It was really difficult to choose which of these priceless messages to illustrate. One of my favourites was the holding the fan to shield oneself from the sun – to signal, “I find you ugly!” Somewhat difficult to pull off in a ballroom, I imagine.

Holding the closed fan over the left earHere are some fan signals for your delectation:

1. The fan placed near the heart: “You have won my love”
2. A closed fan touching the right eye: “When may I be allowed to see you?”
3. The number of sticks shown answered the question: “At what hour?”
4. Threatening movements with a fan closed: “Do not be so imprudent”
5. Half-opened fan pressed to the lips: “You may kiss me”
6. Hands clasped together holding an open fan: “Forgive me”
7. Covering the left ear with an open fan: “Do not betray our secret”
8. Hiding the eyes behind an open fan: “I love you”
9. Shutting a fully opened fan slowly: “I promise to marry you”
10. Letting the fan rest on the right cheek: “Yes”
11. Letting the fan rest on the left cheek: “No”
12. Opening and closing the fan several times: “You are cruel”
13. Dropping the fan: “We will be friends”
14. Putting the fan handle to the lips: “Kiss me”
15. Opening a fan wide: “Wait for me”
16. Fan in right hand in front of face: “Follow me”
17. Fan in left hand in front of face: “I am desirous of your acquaintance”
18. Fan held over left ear: “I wish to get rid of you”
19. Twirling the fan in the left hand: “We are being watched”
20. Twirling the fan in the right hand: “I love another”
21. Carrying the open fan in the right hand: “You are too willing”
22. Carrying the open fan in the left hand: “Come and talk to me”
23. Drawing the fan through the hand: “I hate you!”
24. Hiding the sunlight: “You’re ugly”
25. Presenting the fan shut: “Do you love me?” 

Forget the air con, employ a fan! It’s much more fun.

Shielding oneself from sunlight (or the harsh glare of those chandeliers in the ballroom)