True Crocodile Tears

If you’ve been reading fashion magazines for a little while, you will have come across – at least once – some fashion editor’s declaration that owning a crocodile leather bag (preferably the Hermès Kelly, or the Birkin at a pinch) is the pinnacle of style perfection to which any self-respecting fashionista must aspire.

The Kelly bag was named after Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco. [Click through to read about the history of the Kelly bag in greater detail.)Why is crocodile leather considered such a luxury item, I wondered? Is it because these giant reptiles are so lethal that once upon a time dispossessing them of their hide was to endanger life and limb? A little research leads me to discover that though these days crocodiles are farmed, it does not necessarily negate the danger. Of course it is to luxury goods manufacturers’ benefit to tout the beauty and exclusivity of exotic-skin products … just as the ivory from elephant tusks were once so prized so that elephants became critically endangered.

A modern Kelly bag in orange crocodile leather – but what is the truth that lies beneath this exotic skin?A very little research also leads me to discover the horrific conditions some crocodiles suffer under – not all are humanely stunned before they are killed. (If you have the stomach for it, read more on the Daily Mail.) Whatever your stance on the wearing of leather and fur, it must be acknowledged that cowhides at least are a by-product of the meat industry, whereas the market for crocodile meat is very small. Crocodiles are farmed and slaughtered exclusively for their skin, which is then reproduced as $40,000 handbags by designer brands of the likes of Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada – and they will accept only the top ten per cent of crocodile skins. To help prevent abuse, each crocodile skin needs a certificate proving it is not in violation of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora [businessoffashion.com].

Well, I am very happy and relieved to report that my crocodile accessories are vintage.

An average handbag can be crafted from up to two crocodile skins (for each of which a farmer may receive $600). The wait for an Hermès Birkin bag can be years-long, but if you’re very impatient and have the cash lying around, you could possibly pick one up on eBay for between $39,000–$150,000. “There are women who don’t care about money that love the beautiful things,” said Gianluca Brozzetti, CEO of fashion house Cavalli. “Demand for crocodile and alligator is large because I think it is one of the trends that never ends. It is a classic.” [businessoffashion.com]

VINTAGE CROCODILES

Well, I am very happy and relieved to report that my crocodile accessories are vintage. The tote bag, which I myself bought many years ago on eBay to use as a shopper (though lately I have been carrying it every day as my work bag) cost me the princely sum of $40. The tiny purse, which fits just enough plastic cards, banknotes and a few coins, was also bought secondhand just a few months ago, from a thrift store for – wait for it – $6. I love it more for its diminutive size than the fact that it is crafted from luxury leather. They are both a little worn, but I don’t care. I love both items because they are pre-loved, and I am glad and proud that I have not added to the burden of tears this world holds already.

Photos: July 2016

Boho v. Bohemian

Boho style has never appealed to me, and I lay the blame squarely on Sienna Miller. In the Nineties and early Noughties, she became so ubiquitous and synonymous with this style that I had to suppress a shudder at the sight of her whenever I flipped the page in a magazine. She was everywhere, extolled and lavished with praise, as was the gypsy style she popularised.

In my mind, ‘boho’ seems sometimes to be interchangeable with the word ‘hideous’. It is indiscriminately used to describe anything with a vaguely hippy appearance, and often involves yards and yards of enveloping Seventies polyester knit, paisley print, miles of fringing, a granny’s-worth of crochet, tiered gypsy skirts, pirate boots (preferably in tan leather or suede), floral leather thong headbands (with or without a crystal pendant), multitudes of long necklaces and an excessive quantity of rings worn on practically every finger at once (see below).

The closest I came to anything boho during my style evolution was a printed Indian full skirt I wore when I was at art school. My mum told me I looked like a gypsy. (Gypsies were a common sight when she was growing up in Yugoslavia in the Forties and Fifties.) I actually found it quite difficult to dress up for this photoshoot, and it took me two attempts to find something emulating boho style.

Today the term ‘boho’ is popularly taken to be an abbreviation simply for ‘bohemian’, but in fact its style origin is more particular, and comes from the French term ‘bobo’. It is ‘short for bourgeois bohème. Parisians who are both upscale and artistic. Similar to the original meaning of the American ‘hipster’, but generally laced with a uniquely French je ne sais quois.’ [Urban Dictionary]

But this is still a very superficial description of the boho chick – I wanted to know who were the original Bohemians, and what distinguished them from their style counterpart of today.

The Origin of the True Bohemians

The original Bohemians sprung up in the late nineteenth century. As Wikipedia describes it: ‘Bohemianism is the practice of an unconventional lifestyle, often in the company of like-minded people, with few permanent ties, involving musical, artistic, or literary pursuits.’ Or as Virginia Nicholson, author of Among the Bohemians – Experiments in living 1900–1939 [Viking, 2002], puts it:

‘Subversive, eccentric and flamboyant, the artistic community in England in the first half of the twentieth century was engaged on the bold experiment of refashioning not just their art, but their daily lives. They were the pioneers of a domestic revolution.’

Artists, poets, and writers such as Rupert Graves, Augustus John, Dora Carrington, Virgina Wolf, the Bell family of the Bloomsbury Group and many, many more paved the way for how we live today.

Vanessa BellThey in turn were inspired by the emigrating Romanies. The origin of the word ‘bohemian’ is interesting. Today the French Bohémien is translated as ‘Gypsy’, but the original Boii were refugees from the area known until recently as Czechoslovakia. From the early days of the Roman Empire until the Middle Ages, a diaspora of these people fled into Western Europe. They joined groups of disreputable wandering minstrels, unfrocked priests and monks, and from then the word ‘Bohemian’ became associated with such nomadic groups of similar style. When the first genuine Romanies appeared in France with their colourful and vagabond lifestyle, they were immediately associated with the previous refugees. By the sixteenth century, all gypsies were indiscriminately named bohemians.

The Kalderasà invade Britain, 1911 (from Among the Bohemians, by Virginia Nicholson)Augustus John, who modeled his life on the vagabond gypsy and was possibly the original bohemian, was an artist active in the early twentieth century. At the turn of the century after discovering the world of the gypsies in the encampments outside Liverpool, he wrote, ‘Henceforth I was to live for Freedom and the Open Road! No more urbanity for me, no more punctilio…’ Clothing was already deliberately neglected in defiance of his respectable upbringing; he then adopted an exhibitionist style, wore gold earrings, wild hair and beard, which, in his own words, ‘often failed to recommend me to strangers’.

The bohemians of this era celebrated camaraderie, they partied hard, and were irresistibly spontaneous.

His mistress and later second wife, Dorothy McNeill appeared in his paintings metamorphosed as ‘the gypsy goddess Dorelia, her graceful figure swathed by Augustus in yellow folds or sculpted in blue draperies. In his paintings her head is scarved or turbaned, and smocked children caper at her feet, which appear bare from beneath the folds of her long dress. A bright medieval-looking tunic follows the contours of her form. She raises her arms to the sky.’ [Nicholson] Here is the boho babe personified!

Dora Carrington (left) with fellow bohemiansThe bohemians of this era celebrated camaraderie, they partied hard, and were irresistibly spontaneous. Bohemian women bobbed their hair, shockingly wore trousers, and discovered the freedom of sandals after the confinement of uncomfortable shoes. They slept under the stars and climbed trees barefoot. Wearing sandals was actually quite scandalous, indicating libertarian ideals, a preference for beauty, health and comfort over respectability. Though they were expensive, the wearing of sandals indicated anti-affluence— Dorothy John, when seen wearing sandals, was presumed destitute.

Wearing sandals was actually quite scandalous, indicating libertarian ideals, a preference for beauty, health and comfort over respectability.

Hallmark Style of the Modern Boho Babe

According to popular modern notions, bohemian are airy-fairy hippy chicks dressed mostly in romantic, earthy garments, who are fond of wafting around in fields with a breeze ruffling their Rapunzelesque locks with their eyes half-closed pensively. In short, they are inspired by the popular notion of the nineteenth century gypsy, oblivious of their English artistic antecedents.

But what do boho chicks actually wear? Long, flowing layers in printed fabrics, whether they are bursting into flower or a riot of tribal patterns seem to be the most popular iteration. Embroidered, fringed, or beaded fabric is also acceptable, and anything that looks ethnic or exotic. These garments are worn with long beads and feathers, and sequinned or studded belts. Tan leather is preferred as it looks more earthy. Hair is worn long and usually parted in the middle, accessorised with plaited leather thong headbands (my version is a rather tongue-in-cheek exaggerated take on this!). The natural habitat of the boho babe is the music festival, such as Coachella or Glastonbury.

Talitha Getty's style inspires designers still today (click through to read more)Here is Loulou de la Falaise wearing a turban, also adopted by the original bohemians in emulation of gypsiesPoppy Delevingne wearing an Erdem dress and Olympia Le-Tann clutchHere is Sienna Miller, the ubiquitous boho babe herself! (Link to original image broken)Talitha Getty would be the boho chick’s patron saint, and she really did live a bohemian lifestyle in Marrakech. Another Seventies icon with a true bohemian lifestyle is Loulou de la Falaise. Besides Sienna Miller, other celebrity boho babes of this era are Poppy Delevigne, the Olsen twins and Nicole Ritchie.

The average boho chick is clearly not a genuine bohemian in the sociological sense; she is simply acting out a stereotype, temporarily adopting a fad or fashion style for the summer (or just the weekend).

I wonder who are the true bohemians today, and what are they wearing? I suspect they are still much like Augustus John and his band, somewhere on the fringes of society, living life fully and marching to the beat of their own drum.

Photos: March 2014

The Hidden Truth About Eelskin

Last year I bought this vintage 70s eelskin handbag in a charity store. It is not the only eelskin bag that I own: I also have a soft red pouch. However, I have not often used them in the belief that the softness of the skin meant it was quite fragile. Research lead me to discover that the opposite was in fact the case. But it was not the only thing I learned …

I found out the real truth about eelskin. I was so shocked I consider it my duty to expose the infamous lies of the fashion industry.

EELSKIN IS NOT EEL’S SKIN!

It is in fact the skin of an unpleasant and unattractive scavenger that lurks upon the ocean floor, eats dead and dying fish, and kills its enemies with slime.

Yes, slime. I am not joking. (If you want to read more about this revolting defence mechanism, click here.)

The creature is the Pacific hagfish, one of few jawless (Agnathan) fish, and it does resemble an eel, being long and thin. Perhaps it was simply a poor and inadvertent translation into English that produced the misnomer, or perhaps it was a deliberate marketing ploy, but whatever the truth of its origin, ‘eelskin’ is certainly a more appealing name than ‘hagfishskin’!

… whatever the truth of its origin, ‘eelskin’ is certainly a more appealing name than ‘hagfishskin’!

This jawless fish is eaten in Asia, so its skin is a culinary by-product, which is ethically pleasing. The resultant leather is highly prized, being very smooth (it feels like silk) and exceptionally strong, making it almost maintenance-free, and is used in the creation of every kind of accessory, clothing, and even furnishings.

Clean & Care

While eelskin can be conditioned occasionally with colourless shoe wax, this is not recommended for lighter-coloured items as over time added oils can darken the pigment of the skin.

For oil stains (grease, suntan oil, lotion etc) apply rubber cement (available from art and craft stores) sparingly to the stain, let dry and peel off. Many applications may be necessary, but it should eventually come out.

For liquid stains, let dry naturally overnight. Water will not stain, but in the case of some other liquid, splash with water to thoroughly rinse out. Blot excess water, but do not rub.

For ballpoint ink stains, rub with clean finger, or if that does not do the job, try a pencil eraser, rubbing very gently. It’s best to attempt this while the mark is fresh. Permanent ink cannot be removed. [Tips from Coast]

Shop

To buy new, check out Maiden Voyage, Sova Leather, and Coast.

Photos: January 2015, April 2016

Big Guns for Cold Snaps

White is right for any time of year, from little white linen dresses for summer to fluffy winter woollies like this beautiful wrap style vanilla-coloured sweater.

I was so excited to buy this sweater by The Limited on eBay a few months ago (anticipating just this kind of cold snap we’re enjoying in Melbourne currently), and I couldn’t wait to wear it. Made from 50% angora and 50% lambswool, it’s deliciously soft and fluffy and warm.

I remembered there was a reason why sweaters are called … ugh, sweaters.

However, I rather jumped the gun and wore it to work a couple of weeks ago … and I nearly passed out from heat exhaustion! I remembered there was a reason why sweaters are called … ugh, sweaters. (Australians call them jumpers, but this glorious item is definitely a sweater.)

Angora fibre comes from the downy coat of the Angora rabbit, as opposed to mohair, the fibre from the Angora goat. The fur is collected by plucking or shearing the moulting fur; in most breeds, moulting occurs every four months with the natural growth cycle.

The Angora rabbit

What makes angora special?

Angora is much warmer and lighter than wool because of the hollow core of the fibre – this is what gives angora its typical floaty feel. The other distinctive characteristic of angora is its ‘halo’ – or fluffiness – and its silky texture.

Angora is usually used as a blend of around 30–50% with wool, as any higher percentage is excessively warm. (100% angora is usually only used on trims.) Blending also aids in increasing the elasticity of the yarn, as angora is not naturally elastic.

Angora is much warmer and lighter than wool because of the hollow core of the fibre …

Obviously increased warmth equals humidity and perspiration, and one of the unfortunate side effects of this is that the fibre, in combination with abrasion, can felt easily. It can even do so on the rabbit if it is not groomed regularly!

How is mohair different?

Mohair is quite a different kettle of fish, more akin to sheep’s wool (though due to its composition it does not felt like wool or angora) with a high lustre and sheen, and is considered a luxury fibre. While this durable and flame resistant fibre does possess insulating and moisture wicking properties, amusing as it is, I won’t be donning this ‘super soft, light, warm underwear’* any time soon, cold snap or no cold snap!

Sexy wooly chunky knit mohair hoody catsuit

* If you’re unafraid of melting like I am, you can order your custom-made sexy wooly chunky knit mohair hoody catsuit here.

Photo: April 2016

The Ballet Slipper Miracle

I have never owned a pair of ballet flats that have not done a grievous violence to my feet. That is, until now.

I had heard of the brand Sambag, known for their ballet flats, but I had not tried them on before. Ballet flats, a classic shoe shape, by rights ought to be comfortable enough to walk around in all day. However, with my past experience in mind – ballet flats that pinched excruciatingly and had me hobbling rather than dancing on air – I would have been extremely reluctant to part with the $165 retail price tag that was attached to this pair.

Ballet flats … by rights ought to be comfortable enough to walk around in all day.

But when I stumbled across these pretty patent slippers in a charity store, I was willing to give them a chance. They were still in their original box, barely worn, and when I tried them on, remarkably they felt immediately comfortable. The leather was quite soft, and I had room for my toes. It was a footwear miracle. I also loved the colour, ballerina pink, although on my feet they could legitimately be called ‘nude’ – they make me look like I am traipsing about in bare feet, which is amusing.

When I took them to the counter, the staff informed me they were charging the comparatively high price of $30 ‘because the soles are leather’. I refrained from replying that simply meant they would wear out quicker, and also it would make them dangerously slippery. (Slippery slippers!) I merely smiled acquiescence and bought them.

These shoes turned out to be a brilliant purchase, for I’ve worn them so many times in the last month or so since I bought them. My only regret since is that they have become a little scuffed because I have worn them so much!

Photo: April 2016